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lember 21, 1915 



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OUR TRIP ABROAD 



BY 



Helen Parker ^Villard 

Pasadena, California 

1915 




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DEDICATION 

To our children 

HENRY AUGUSTUS WILLARD, 2nd 

WILLIAM BRADLEY WILLARD 

SARAH KELLOGG WILLARD 

this little book is affectionately dedicated 

by their Mother, 

hoping it may bring to them 

pleasant memories of a wonderful trip, 

and revive in their minds 

never to be forgotten joys and pleasures 

of their first journey 

to foreign lands. 

HELEN PARKER WILLARD 

Pasadena, California 
1915 



ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 

OUR family party, consisting of my husband, myself 
and three small children, with two caretakers, left 
Walpole. New Hampshire, on the afternoon of January 
27th for Boston and, two days later — January 29, 1910 — 
we sailed from that port on the S. S. Cretic, White Star 
Line, for Naples. It was our first trip abroad, and we 
were all filled with excitement over the novel experience. 
After the excitement of getting on shipboard and being 
located in our various state-rooms, the next thing that 
interested us most was getting our mail. I was, indeed, 
most fortunate ; for my steamer letters numbered twenty- 
one and, by proxy, I had with me every member of my 
family, as well as letters from many friends and others 
who had sent us beautiful flowers, books and boxes of 
candy, to enjoy, if conditions permitted, during our 
voyage. 

Our first really thrilling experience occurred just after 
boarding the steamer. Little William Bradley, in his de- 
sire to explore the steamer, had wandered off and com- 
pletely disappeared from us all, and no one knew where he 
was. Pandemonium reigned and our consternation was 
indeed great ; for any moment our steamer was ready to 
sail, and we did not know whether the little fellow was on 
shipboard or not. I was so afraid he had wandered off 
the boat in the confusion of so great a crowd. We were 
all about frantic, and each one started off in a different 
direction to search for our missing boy. Fully half an 
hour had elapsed before the little fellow was discovered 



10 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



standing on the steamer just near the gang-plank, ab- 
sorbed and interested in watching all that was going on. 
Later, when questioned as to why he had gone off alone, 
he said in a most unconcerned and complacent way, "I 
wanted to see the big boat." I was then debating in my 




HELEN AND HARRY 

own mind if this was to be my daily experience for six 
months traveling abroad with three small children. Was 
the trip going to be one of pleasure or filled with care and 
constant anxiety ? Already I was wishing we were all 
safely at home. 



ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 



11 



We sailed right out into a hard, disagreeable rain and 
wind-storm, and the sea was very rough and rolling. 
Everybody had been on deck only a short time, when, 
one by one, they disappeared rapidly to their state-rooms. 
The boat was now pitching and rolling worse than ever, 




HENRY AUGUSTUS, SARAH, WILLIAM BRADLEY 

and, although I was determined not to give up, I found 
I, too, had to succumb to the inevitable. We all had a 
long and severe attack of mal dc mer, excepting Harry, 
and we did not make our reappearance on deck again for 
three days, when the sunny skies and smooth seas tempted 



12 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



us to leave our stuffy state-rooms. 

Today we have all been glad to take part in the sports 
on deck. Harry and I played some exciting games oi 
shuffle-board and the children greatly enjoyed the games 
arranged for them. The potato race was particularly 
amusing and entertaining. After our games, Henry 




FUNCHAL 



Augustus quite surprised our fellow travelers by reciting 
Barbara Frietchie. This he did unusually well for a child 
of his age, and won the admiration and commendation 
of all. 

After more than six days of the same sky and sea for 
scenery, we were much excited over the announcement 



ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 



13 



that one of the big islands of the Azores was sighted and. 
in the afternoon, onr steamer anchored in the harbor of 
Ponta Delgada. St. Michaels is the largest of the nine 
islands, composing the group known as the Azores, and 
tli 3 principal town on this island is Ponta Delgada. The 
sea was very rough and the landing was both difficult 




OX-SLEDGE, FUNCHAL 



and perilous. Small boats came out to our steamer, and 
the passengers were obliged to descend on a ladder of 
some forty or fifty steep steps. Each person was assisted 
by the sailors into the small row-boats, and with fifteen or 
twenty passengers in a boat they were rowed to the quay 
and. after seeing some of our fellow passengers dis- 



14 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



embark, my courage failed me and I decided not to go 
ashore ; but Harry and the two little boys made the trip. 

As our steamer approached Ponta Delgada, it im- 
pressed me as the prettiest and most fairy-like place I 
had ever seen. The predominant color of the houses was 
white with red tile roofs, snugly nestled on the mountain- 




READY FOR A RIDE 



side. The language spoken at Ponta Delgada is Portu- 
guese, and little English is heard. 

A two-days* sail from the Azores, and we arrived 
February sixth at the island of Madeira, where we dis- 
embarked at the town of Funchal, and we were indeed 



ON BOARD S. S. CRETIC 15 

glad of the opportunity to get off the steamer. What a 
strange and foreign place it is ! The most extraordinary 
and novel sight and experience in Funchal were the drives 
in the curious ox-carts and the toboggan slides through 
the narrow and crooked streets of the town. Funchal is 
built on the side of a mountain ; so the streets are all very 
steep and are covered with small, smooth, round stones, 
making toboganning great sport. The novel and huge 
basket in which seven of us were seated was guided by 
two natives to the base of the mountain. The ride was 
a thrilling one, and appealed strongly to the children's 
sense of enjoyment and enthusiastic delight. The habit 
of tipping, so prevalent all over Europe, had begun. 
These primitive Islanders were quite as eager for money 
as their fellow-men on the continent, and many times was 
our ride interrupted by their plea for pennies. The streets 
in Funchal are queer, narrow and very crooked. The 
windows in the houses are covered with iron bars which 
serve as a protection against the hard winds, as well as 
against thieves. This is where the famous Madeira wine 
is made. Vegetation has a most luxuriant growth and 
the gardens are both extensive and varied in their tropical 
productions. The banana tree and the sugar cane are 
grown here in great abundance. 

This morning we were called at five o'clock ; for our 
steamer was now rapidly approaching the famous Rock of 
Gibraltar. We were soon all out on deck, and surely we 
had arrived there at just the right moment ; for day was 
just dawning and the early morning light behind this 
colossal and noble rock, withal so still and quiet, made 
it a most impressive sight. This rock has the appearance 
of a great weather-beaten, sleeping lion that had been 
carved and hewn by the giants of time. Our ship 
anchored about five miles from the quay, and, as the land- 
ing here was again made in small boats, I remained on the 
steamer with the two younger children. Harry and 



16 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Henry Augustus went ashore and visited the town of 
Gihraltar. 

Sailing out of the harbor and through the straits of 
Gibraltar, we entered the blue and quiet waters of the 
Mediterranean. Now we have our first glimpse of Spain 
and Africa, and the far-distant, snow-capped Sierra Ne- 
vada mountains. Daylight gradually fades, and the sun- 
set is a rare sight, and rarer still is the marvelous after- 
glow, Nature producing one of the most exquisite cloud 
pictures I have ever seen. 

Late in the afternoon of February tenth, we landed at 
Algiers for a few short hours only. After landing, Harry 
secured a good, comfortable carriage, and we then drove 
through the old Arab portion of the city, this being espe- 
cially interesting ; for here we see the dark, narrow, mys- 
terious-looking streets and scenes. Algiers is strictly 
Oriental with its Moors and Arabs in their strange, yet 
picturesque, and almost grotesque-looking costumes. 

Another day's voyage over a lonesome sea brought us 
our first view of Italv. 



NAPLES 

After two whole weeks on the Cretic, today we sailed 
into the beautiful Bay of Naples, and we find ourselves 
surrounded by the volcanic islands of Capri and Ischai, 




BEAUTIFUL BAY OF NAPLES 



with the grand and always smoking Vesuvius in the fore- 
ground, which make it an awe-inspiring picture. It was 
not until dark that we landed at Naples and here, passing 
through the Custom House, was an ordeal never to be 



18 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

forgotten. We were besieged on all sides by a howling 
mob of fakirs and vagabonds, who importuned us to buy, 
or insisted on being our couriers. Although they could 
not speak English, the first words we heard were "Penny! 
Penny ! Money ! Money !" and, in fact, all the time we 
were in Naples we heard the sad and pathetic plea. 

From our steamer we went to the Royal Hotel, delight- 
fully situated on the Bay of Naples. We had now joined 
the Bureau of University Travel Party, under the leader- 
ship of Dr. H. H. Powers, for travel in Pompeii and 
Egypt, and today we began our sight-seeing in Europe. 
After a strictly continental breakfast of rolls, honey, 
coffee or cocoa, we started forth in quest of knowledge. 
We spent the morning in the National Museum, where 
we saw the representation of Greek mural decorations 
that had been excavated after the final eruption of Vesu- 
vius which destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum. Never 
have I spent such a profitable and pleasurable morning. 
The treasures we beheld included exquisite Roman mos- 
aics and bronze ornaments excavated at Pompeii. 

After spending the morning in the Museum, this after- 
noon we had an opportunity to see Naples. It is a beauti- 
fully located city, surrounded by the most lovely bay in 
the world. It is truly a city of squalor and splendor and, 
with its bustling Via Roma, it has many attractive thor- 
oughfares and fascinating shops. 

Pompeii. 

Pompeii is about fifteen miles from Naples and, early 
this morning, with the Powers party, Harry, Henry Aug- 
ustus and I started forth, leaving William and little Sarah 
with the caretakers at Naples until our return. After 
traveling by train for two hours and a half, and passing 
over lava beds, and with Vesuvius always in sight, we 
reached Pompeii where we trudged through the deserted 
and desolate streets of this doomed city. The long. 



NAPLES 



19 



dreary walk through these impressive ruins was an expe- 
rience never to be forgotten. We first visited the mu- 
seum at Pompeii, which contains the skeletons of human 
beings, also those of dogs and horses, that had been 
found under the ruins. One of the interesting ruins of 
the town is the Basilica, where the king resided. Here 




POMPEII 



the mural decorations are all well-preserved. Pompeii 
was partially destroyed by an earthquake 63 A. D., at the 
time of Nero, and sixteen years later was totally de- 
stroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The ruins 
of the Temple, theatre, streets and Roman buildings are 
of unusual interest. The most interesting place in Pom- 



20 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

peii is the excavation of the Colonnade, and from here one 
has an extensive view of the vast ruins. Of all the ruins 
in Pompeii the house of Vettio is the most famous and 
interesting- ; for it was excavated only ten years ago and 
everything was found intact. A Roman dining-room, 
genuinely artistic, is here seen, with its beautiful, bright 
red frieze of cupids and a masterpiece of chariot-races. 
We saw where the excavations of Heculaneum were go- 
ing on. The exterior of the House of Pansa is very 
interesting and artistic. 

From Pompeii we started to drive ten miles to Cava ; 
but we had gone only a few miles when our carriage 
collided rather disastrously with a market wagon, and 
our conveyance was so demolished that we were obliged 
to take the train. Indeed, we all had a narrow escape. 
Harry was seated on a high seat in front with the driver 
and was thrown out. Fortunately he landed right on top 
of the fat fellow and thus escaped injury. The ladies 
were all tumbled out on top of each other ; but we, too, 
escaped being hurt. The poor horses are all so tired 
from being overworked that they could not possibly run 
away. I think the drivers in Italy are the most cruel and 
careless I have ever seen. After spilling us all out, our 
enraged driver, with his very limited knowledge of Eng- 
lish, tried to make us pay for his broken carriage. We 
felt too indignant to give him even a pour boire and hur- 
ried away, leaving him standing in the midst of a great 
crowd that had congregated, talking and gesticulating in 
a most characteristic Italian manner. 

Amalfi. 

This perfectly radiant morning we started on the fam- 
ous Amalfi Drive. This road is the most marvelous piece 
of engineering in the world, being literally carved out of 
solid rock and stone from the steep mountain-side. It 
extends fortv miles from Cava to Sorrento. This beauti- 



NAPLES 



21 



ful and far-famed drive skirts the Mediterranean and 
gives us superb views of the blue sea and the snow- 
capped mountains in the distance. The picturesque Ital- 
ian villas, with their tiny houses perched upon the moun- 
tainside, resemble bird-nests more than actual dwelling 
places. There are many steep cliffs rising abruptly and 




AMALFI 



towering hundreds of feet above us. The orange and 
the lemon groves are numerous here. Amalfi is a charm- 
ing and secluded little spot. We took luncheon at the 
Amalfi Monastery Inn, which is located very high upon 
the side of the mountain, commanding a most extensive 
and glorious view of the Mediterranean. 



22 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



We continued our drive to Sorrento and arrived here 
just in time to see a most beautiful and brilliant sunset 
over the Bay of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius in the 
distance. We spent the night at the Hotel Tramontano, 
where we were told by the proprietor all the crowned 
heads of Europe have been royally entertained. It was 




MAKING MACARONI 



here, too, that the poet Tasso was born in 1595, and his 
room is carefully preserved. 

The next morning it rained so hard that, much to cur 
disappointment, our excursion to the Island of Capri, 
which is famed for its Blue Grotto, had to be abandoned. 
We spent the morning in the attractive shops where I 



NAPLES 23 

purchased some Roman silks, scarfs, and picture frames 
made from the beautiful Sorrento wood. We returned 
to Naples by trolley, passing through many large groves 
of olive trees. We had a fine view of F. Marion Craw- 
ford's attractive villa, situated on this beautiful bay. 

Our stay in Naples was now ended and, after an early 
lunch, we were ready to start for our steamer. However, 
before reaching there, we had an experience I shall never 
forget. Everyone who has traveled in Europe knows 
how overcrowded the big hotel busses always are. The 
passengers are crowded inside and the baggage is piled 
so high on top that one wonders it stays on at all. Two 
busses arrived to take our party of twenty-four to the 
steamer. The first one was filled and drove off ; the 
next came, and the remaining ones crowded into it liter- 
ally like so many sardines, and our baggage was placed 
on top as usual. Harry and the two boys were sitting up 
with the driver, and Sarah and I, with many others, were 
inside. 

The horses started and, pulling hard, it looked very 
doubtful to me if they could draw the heavy load. Going 
along slowly up a steep hill until they had almost reached 
the top, the horses all at once refused to go any further 
— in fact, they simply could not ; for the weight of the 
heavy bus pulled them backwards down the hill. No 
one knew what the end would be. The driver whipped 
and beat his team ; still the big bus kept backing down 
and down until it was pushed up on the sidewalk against 
a stone wall, and the wonder was that it stopped there. 
If it had not, we should have all been dashed to death 
many feet below. Hurriedly and much frightened we 
got out of the bus, feeling most thankful that we had not 
been killed. Harry then hailed a passing carriage, and 
we drove to the quay, where we boarded our steamer 
for Alexandria. 



EGYPT 

Today we are sailing along on the Celtic, bound for 
Alexandria. Our voyage takes us past the active vol- 
cano Stromboli and through the Straits of Messina. A 
three days' sail from Naples over a lovely smooth sea, 
and we disembarked at Alexandria. The landing here 
was made by small tugs. As we stepped on the quay, 
all was confusion and bedlam. Shouting Arabs, with 
their red fezes, confronted us, having fake articles to sell 
of every sort, and demanding "backshiesh." Never be- 
fore have I seen so many beggars and such abject poverty. 
After stopping at the Custom House, the officials pro- 
ceeded to look into our bags ; then we started on a drive 
around the city of Alexandria. We saw many queer, 
narrow, and oh! such dirty streets. The only object of 
interest to us was the miscalled Pompey's Pillar. This 
pillar was erected in honor of Diocletian, a "Roman em- 
peror. 

In the afternoon we took an express train for Cairo, 
arriving at this largest and most important city of Egypt 
at six o'clock. How soon we knew we were in the land 
of the desert ! The country has such a strange peculiar- 
ity of its own, and it is a desolate waste of barren, parched 
and unproductive soil. 

Just before we reached Cairo, poor little Sarah had 
the misfortune of getting a cinder in her eye. Well, it 
was indeed most painful for the little tot, we all realized ; 
but there was little we could do for her relief, and a 
good, hard cry finally washed the cinder out. Sarah, 



EGYPT 



25 




LANDING AT ALEXANDRIA 



Jo 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



however, insisted on having' her eye well bandaged. 
After getting out of the train, and as we started to walk 
along, someone exclaimed : "Oh ! look at the camels." 
Sarah instantly snatched off the bandage — her eye was 
cured ! 

Cairo has a population of more than 1,000,000 inhabi- 




YIEW OF CAIRO FROM CITADEL 



tants. Our party was here divided into two parts : the 
first one starting on their trip up the Nile, while our 
party remained in Cairo. We found the city in great 
confusion and turmoil, because today — February JOth — 
the prime minister, an Egyptian, had been assassinated 
by Arabs. 



EGYPT 



27 




OLDEST MOSOUE IN CAIRO 



28 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Our first drive through Cairo led us to the Mosque of 
Mohammed Ali, and then to the Citadel, where we ob- 
tained a fine view of Cairo, the pyramids, the great desert 
and the river Nile. 

The houses in Cairo are all of one color — that of the 
surrounding desert. The Mosque of Mohammed Ali is 




FIRST MOSOUE VISITED 



the most modern of all the mosques in the city. It is of 
Byzantine architecture and is very imposing in appear- 
ance with its many lofty and graceful minarets. Before 
entering, we had to remove our shoes and put on sandals. 
Costly and beautiful rugs cover the floors and everything 
about the structure is most elegant and Oriental. 



EGYPT 



29 




CAIRO FROM NILE BRIDGE 



30 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Egypt has always been a land of wonder and mystery. 
We gaze at it with awe and reverence for its great age ; 
with amazement at its pyramids, giant statues, tombs and 
temples. The pyramids are one of the Seven Wonders of 
the World, and their building is a problem that can never 
be solved ; for there is no machine in existence even today 









CHEOPS AND SPHINX 



powerful enough to raise those colossal stones to their 
place in tbe stupendous piles. 

To night we made our first and memorable trip to 
the Pyramids by moonlight. What an impressive sight 
it was ! Their tremendous size and the great stillness 
and solemnity were most impressive. There are three 



EGYPT 



31 




CLIMBING CHEOPS 



32 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



great pyramids of Gizeh : the largest is Cheops. Then 
there are two smaller ones, and the Sphinx stands smil- 
ing silently near by. The Great Pyramid was built 
three thousand years before Christ. It is four hundred 
and sixty feet in height and covers thirteen acres. It 
was built at the time of Herodotus and was started by 



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RETURN OF SACRED CARPET FROM MECCA 



Cheops, their ruler. It took 100,000 men twenty years 
to build it, and it is now five thousand years old. The 
Pyramids are the tombs of the chief rulers of Egypt. 

A drive through the narrow and dirty streets of old 
Cairo gave us an idea of how terribly unhealthy and un- 
civilized the Egyptians are. The children become blind 



EGYPT 



33 



because their ignorant and heathenish parents consider 
it a sin to brush Mies from their faces, and these breed 
many terrible diseases. 

We also visited today an old mosque where Christ is 
supposed to have been hid with Joseph and Mary when 
they took their flight into Egypt. We then went across 




PLOW IXC IX EGYPT 



to the island of Roda. It was here, legend says, Phar- 
oah's daughter found Moses in the bulrushes. We then 
visited another mosque, where we saw and heard an 
Arab on the roof of a mosque giving the call to prayer. 
February 23d. Today is father's and mother's forty- 
fifth wedding anniversary; so naturally my first thought 



34 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

this morning was to send a greeting by cablegram to 
them. The clocks in Cairo are twelve hours earlier 
than Washington time. On my return home, I was grati- 
fied and surprised to hear that my message from the far 
distant Orient to the Occident was the first family greet- 
ing of the day to reach father and mother. 

In Cairo one sees so many different nationalities in 
their varied and picturesque costumes that the street 
scenes present almost a kaleidoscopic effect in their rapid 
and ever changing appearance. 

Our next visit was to the Arab university. On our way 
there we had our second unpleasant experience with 
careless and reckless driving. Our driver, in crossing a 
car-track, pulled off a wheel from our carriage. For- 
tunately our vehicle was a very low one ; nevertheless we 
were all tumbled out one on top of the other and, if the 
horses had not stopped, we might have had a very serious 
accident. The Arab university is a strange, weird place. 
There we saw groups of old men and boys of all ages 
squatted on the floor learning their Koran. Religion is 
their one and only thought, and they think more of the 
dead than of the living. Each group of students has its 
own teacher. Their only book is the Koran, and every- 
thing they study is in that book. The course of study in 
the University comprises six years — that time being re- 
quired to master the Koran. Among the fifteen hundred 
students there was only one woman and she was allowed 
there because of her knowledge of the Koran. They do 
not want women in the University, and do not think they 
should be educated. 

Today we made our second trip out to the Pyramids. 
We each mounted a donkey, preferring them to the camels, 
and this was great fun — especially for the children. I do 
not know which they enjoyed more, the donkeys or the 
donkey boys. 



EGYPT 



35 




OBELISK AT HELIOPOLIS 



36 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

On the morning' of February 26th, we had the rare 
opportunity of viewing" the military and spectacular pro- 
cession of bringing the Sacred Carpet from Mecca. This 
day is always a holiday in Cairo. The shops are closed 
and the best part of the Egyptian populace gather at the 
square near the Citadel to behold the wonderful proces- 
sion, which is thoroughly Oriental. The pilgrimage from 
Cairo began three months ago, when the new carpet was 
started on its journey. This was exchanged for the old 
carpet, and today the camel returned with it on its back, 
enclosed in a large, square and gilt cloth covering re- 
sembling a temple, with many devout Mohammedans fol- 
lowing. 

Thousands of marching soldiers and many playing 
bands made a brilliant and noisy procession. We had a 
fine view of the Khedive, who saluted the throng of people 
as he passed in his well-guarded and gilt-adorned carriage. 
This ceremony occurs every year. 

The new carpet is taken from Cairo and left at Mecca, 
there being exchanged for the old one, which is brought 
today to Cairo and put in a mosque. This same ceremony 
takes place from Damascus to Mecca. 

Today, before leaving Cairo, the children had their 
first memorable ride on a camel. How eager and anxious 
they were to mount this great "ship of the desert" — a most 
faithful and much loved animal by his master ! At last 
they were seated on the camel's back, full of childish en- 
thusiasm at the prospect of their ride. The great, awk- 
ward animal, seated on the ground, started to rise with 
that long backward, then a similar forward, motion, that 
is indescribably disagreeable. Instantly shrieks and 
screams were heard. "Let me off — quick! quick! I'm 
falling. I don't like this !" was the children's chorus. 

On the evening of February 28th, we left Cairo and 
took a sleeping car for Luxor. 



EGYPT 37 

The following verses were written by a member of our 
party and so admirably describe our ten days' trip up the 
Nile on the Pellican that I insert them here : 

Ship we somewheres south of Cairo, 

Through the land of flies and fleas, 
Where the donkey boys are callin' 

On the trav'ler for backshish, 
And the temple ruins, standin' 

So thick on every hand, 
Are drinking up our adjectives 

Like water in the sand. 

On the Nile to Assouan, 

On the good ship Pellican, 
How the moon comes up in splendor 

O'er the desert hills beyond! 

How the paddle wheels are chunkin' 
As they churn the muddy Nile ! 

And we're running on a sand bank- 
Once in every while, 

And the breakfast gong is soundin' 
When we're hardly half awake. 

While the sky turns pink and yaller 
As the day begins to break. 

Oh, the joys and thrills of ridin' 

When the evening light grows pale ! 
And we know the boy behind us 

Will twist the donkey's tail. 
And the purple shadows lengthen 

And the moon begins to rise, 
While Canopus flashes on us 

From the starlit southern skies. 

By the old Egyptian temple. 

Looking westward 'cross the Nile, 



38 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Stands the leader of our party 
With a firm, determined smile 

And he is pointin' out the defects 
In the structures' low relief 

With relentless maledictions 
That are simply past belief. 




^ Hiiinn 









TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSOWET 



Luxor. 

Luxor is built on the banks of the placid and peaceful 
Nile. This afternoon our entire party — twenty-six in 
number — mounted our donkeys and soon we were canter- 
ing off across the wide barren plain to the ruins of the 
Temple of Luxor and Karnak. The ruins of the Temple 



EGYPT 



39 



of Luxor are all that remain of its ancient splendor. They 
are two miles in circumference and are the largest and 
finest in Egypt. Luxor Temple was started by Ameno- 
phis III and finished by Rameses II. One of the obelisks 
from here was taken to the Place de Concord in Paris, 
where it now stands. Here we saw the Hypostile, an 




OUR RETURN FROM TOMBS OF THE KINGS 



obelisk showing the rays of the sun. The Temple of 
Luxor was originally connected by the Avenue of Sphynx 
and the Temple of Karnak. 

Our visit to Luxor included a stop at the beautiful and 
attractive gardens of the Luxor Winter Palace Hotel. 
Harry, the children and I were strolling through these 



40 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



gardens when we met a Hindoo, who insisted upon telling 
our fortunes by reading our palms. It was indeed amus- 
ing — particularly so as he read the children's palms. After 
asking where we lived, he told the boys they would some 
day be president of the United States. 

Tonight we saw our first sunset on the Nile, and the 




TEMPLE OF LUXOR 



colors were truly marvelous. The many clear, transpar- 
ent pinks, pale blues and golden yellows will be long 
remembered. 

This morning Harry, Henry Augustus, little William 
and our faithful nurse, Patsy, and I, with the rest of the 
party, started out to see the ruins of the ancient city of 



EGYPT 



41 



■h 




i** 




LONE COLUMN, KARNAK 



42 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Thebes. To reach these ruins it is necessary to cross the 
Nile, and surely we encountered great difficulty, even in a 
small rowboat; on account of the river's many sandbars. 
After finally getting well over to the other side, the water 
was so very low we could go no further. Our great, 
swarthy Arab oarsman leaped out of the boat into the 
water and, picking each of us up in turn, carried us ashore. 
As he took me up, he exclaimed, "Oh, you are only a 
doll!" and then, holding me in one arm, he picked up 
little William and carried us without the slightest effort. 
At last we were all safely landed. The donkey boys, with 
their donkeys, were waiting for us, as our dragoman had 
arranged with them to meet us, and soon we were on the 
beasts and off for our long trip of seven miles across the 
hot, dusty desert to the Tombs of the Kings. What a 
mass of ruins and desolation greeted us ! Our first stop 
was at the Temple of Seti I. Then we rode to his tomb, 
which is the largest and most elaborate in Egypt. The 
mural decorations represent a series of scenes of sacri- 
fices ; also long, sacred snakes bearing mummies on their 
backs. The building of these Tombs extends many hun- 
dreds of feet underground. In visiting one Tomb we had 
to descend more than three hundred feet, and saw the 
gruesome sight of a mummy king in his sarcophagus that 
had been excavated only in 1898. 

How terribly thirsty we all were after our long ride 
through the hot sun and sand ! But there was no water 
anywhere. Suddenly a small boy appeared with a basket 
of oranges, and how quickly they disappeared, even 
though we had to pay the exorbitant price of a piastre 
apiece ! In our money this would be twenty cents. 

Assouan. 

On March 5th after lunch we went by train from Luxor 
to Assouan, a long, seven hours' ride. Most of the time 
we were crossing the Great Desert of Sahara, and I have 



EGYPT 43 

never experienced such dust as filled the car on that jour- 
ney. Most of the way the scenery was monotonous and 
yet interesting, because it was so different from any we 
had yet seen. We passed through many Bedouin villages, 
where we saw a motley collection of Arabs — men, women 
and children — huddled together with their donkeys and 
camels. A noticeable feature of the Egyptian is his love 
for brutes, which he respects far more than his wife and 
children. 

Arriving at Assouan in the late afternoon, a short walk 
brought us to our steamer Pellican, which was to take us 
on our trip down the Nile. How cool and lovely oitr 
steamer seemed after so much discomfort on the train ' 

Tonight we have another wonderful sunset on the Nile, 
and after once having seen the splendor of a sunset in 
the Orient it can never be forgotten. The delicate, dain- 
ty, clear colors are indescribably beautiful. There is 
something in the balmy softness of the air that makes Hfe 
in Egypt dreamy and fascinating to the traveler. The 
first thing one notices in Egypt is the peculiarity of the 
country, there being an entire absence of anything green. 
In many parts of Egypt no rain ever falls, and the soil is 
irrigated by the River Nile overflowing its banks. Is it 
any wonder the Egyptian worships Father Nile ? A very 
primitive and much used way of irrigating is the pole and 
bucket of the shadoof. 

Assouan is six thousand miles from New York. What 
a long distance we are from home ! It is the southern 
limit of Egypt proper, and seldom does any tourist travel 
beyond this point. The town of Assouan is clean and 
attractive and is unlike the usual dirty, noisy Egyptian 
village. There are many beautiful palm-trees growing 
along the river banks. The streets of the town are dotted 
with the pretty, feathery foliage of date palms. The ba- 
zaars are strange, picturesque and fascinating. In them 



44 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

is found a conglomeration of beads, antique jewelry, em- 
broideries, cashmere shawls, and, in fact, every kind of 
quaint curio. 

A wild and savage-looking race of people is seen here. 
Their hair is very long and a terrible mass of tangies. 
They seem never to have it cut or combed. The children 




THE BIG DAM AT ASSOUAN 



are mostly nude. Often, when walking through the 
streets of Assouan, we would see a train of camels com- 
ing noiselessly along, laden with sacks of huge stones. 

Assouan is famous for the big Dam at the first Catar- 
act. The genius of English engineers has transformed 
the Assouan cataract into a mighty reservoir which gives 



EGYPT 



45 




PYLON KARNAK 



46 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



water to the heart of dried-up Egypt. This dam is one 
mile long and, for four years, a great army of men 
labored to erect this great granite wall. There are a 
hundred and eight gates or sluices that let the water out, 
when needed, into the lower river. 

After visiting this big Dam, we rowed across to the 




PHAROAH S BED, PHILAE 



beautiful ruins of the Island of Philae. These ruins are 
under water most of the year, when the Dam is flooded. 
It seems like desecration for these fine ruins to be so sub- 
merged ; as, in time, they must crumble away into the 
reservoir. 

After lunch, we had a most delightful row around Ele- 



EGYPT 



47 



phantine Island. A crew of eight natives rowed our boat 
between the great black rocks and huge boulders that filled 
the river and surely suggested anything but Egypt to our 
minds. However, had it not been for these rocks it would 
have been impossible to have built the Dam. Our oars- 
men took turns in entertaining us, playing on their tom- 




PVLON, PHILAE 



torn, dancing and chanting a weird refrain. On Ele- 
phantine Island are the ruins of the ancient Nilometer, 
which once indicated the rise and fall of the river. To- 
night we all watched from our steamer a most glorious 
and brilliant sunset. 

At noon todav the Pellican started on its ten davs' 



48 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



cruise down the River Nile. The custom of the Nile 
steamers is to travel by clay and to tie up at night, on 
account of the many sand-bars. After gliding quietly 
and gently along for three hours, our first stop was at the 
ruins of the Temple of Kom-Ombo. The excessive heat 
prevented me and many others of our party from going 




CARAVAN LEANING FOR KHARTOUM 



ashore ; but we could see plainly the ruins of this fine tem- 
ple from our steamer, as they stood near the shore and on 
a high bluff. 

Our next excursion was to Edfu ; but little Sarah was 
sick and I would not leave her, though I wanted to go 
ashore and view the ruins. Thev are said to be the largest 



EGYPT 



49 



and best preserved of any of the Egyptian ruins. 

The next temple we visited was that of Denderah, which 
was in splendid condition. When our boat anchored, a 
crowd of donkey boys, with their donkeys, were waiting 
for us ; as our dragoman had told them of our coming. 
There is always much confusion and arguing among the 




PART OF PARTY AT PJ1ILAK 



donkey boys before getting started on our excursion to 
any ruins. Today, after a longer discussion and delay 
than usual and after much noisy talking and gesticulating 
on their part, little William said rather impatiently: "I 
wish you would speak American — I don't understand 
Ensflish." The donkey boys made a srreat fuss over our 



50 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



children, as so few children travel through Egypt. They 
called them "Skiddoos," Harry "George Washington" 
and me 'Mrs. American," and the donkeys "Automobile." 
This seemed to be the extent of their English. 




out for a walk 

Denderah 

At last we mounted our donkeys and a short ride 
brought us to the temple of Denderah. This temple is in 
a fine state of preservation and remains almost intact. 
After entering the temple, we then proceeded up several 



EGYPT 



51 



flights of stairs to the roof, where we had a splendid view 
of the Great Desert, the River Nile and surrounding coun- 
try. On the wall outside the temple is the famous relief 
of Cleopatra and her son, Csesarion. 




READY FOR A RIDE 



Abydos. 

Our steamer anchored next at Belliana, and then a trip 
of seven miles brought us to the sad and dilapidated ruins 
of the temple of Seti T at Abydos. This temple was built 
in 1300 B. C. and is more than three thousand years old. 



52 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Its mural decorations are particularly fine. The relief 
of Seti I is a real work of art. There are man)- chapels 
connected with this temple. Their colors still remain as 
bright as those of any gaily painted picture book. 




PROFESSOR CLARK ON PELLICAN 



Assiut. 

We arrived at Assiut at noon today. As soon as the 
Pellican anchored, the natives rushed down to the shore, 
just near the boat, and spread out their wares, which con- 
sisted of pottery made out of mud from the Nile. We 



EGYPT 



53 



saw many small children and women making lovely span- 
gled net shawls. Harry bought me a large, beautiful 
white one with the characteristic Egyptian hieroglyphics 
on it. This afternoon we drove out to the Tombs, cut 




ON THE GANG PLANK 



out of solid rock. We entered the dark openings with 
lighted candles, but the inscriptions were illegible. The 
view from these Tombs is very fine. Assiut is called the 
Town of Minarets. 

We then visited the soldiers' tombs, where we saw the 



54 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Egyptian Department of Antiquities. At that time exca- 
vations and collections for museums were being made, and 
we saw lots of mummies that had been just excavated. 

All day we have been sailing along without making 
any stops, until tonight, when we anchored at Benihasen. 



r * ^i 


> .: — — 


4 

- rf 

' 1 ■ ™ 'TIT* 
1 ■■■ 

1 





TEMPLE OF KOM 0MB0 



This morning, after a few hours' sail, we had quite an 
unfortunate experience ; for our boat struck its first sand- 
bar. The entire crew, including the captain, were out in 
the river tugging and pulling at the steamer as hard as 
they could. Finally, after a five hours' delay, we got 



EGYPT 



55 




THE SACRED BOAT RELIEF ON FRAGMENT OF WALL 



56 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



started again. This afternoon, wind and weather being 
favorable, we made up some of onr lost time. 

This morning our boat anchored at Sakkara. A long, 
hot walk across the desert brought us to a canal. Here 
we were ferried across. A choice of conveyances awaited 




TEMPLE MUTT KAMET 



us : camels, donkeys and the broad-wheeled sand-carts. 
Harry, Henry Augustus, William and I chose the cart, 
and soon we were all started, driving through the dirty 
village of Bedrachin, then through some palm groves and 
over sand-hills to the sad and solitary ruins that marked 



EGYPT 





\ *. 







PYLON DENDERAH 



58 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



the site of what was once the city of Memphis. A short 
ride further through an avenue of columns which extended 
to a flight of steps that led to the stupendous statue of 
Rameses II. To say this is the largest statue in Egypt 
will convey no idea of its gigantic size and enormous 




WONDERFUL STATUE OF RAMESES II. 



weight. The length of the statue is about fifty feet ; the 
ear measures three feet. 



Tombs of thf. Kings. 

Leaving this mutilated colossus of Rameses II, we 
cross a plain to a mass of high cliffs — a most deserted 



EGYPT 



59 



and desolate spot — the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings. 
Ascending these bare and wild rocks, we were surprised 
at their grandeur. As we advanced, we found ourselves 
in a long gallery opening into successive halls and rooms 
covered with brilliant colors as fresh today as they were 




IN THE RAMESSEUM 



a thousand years ago. They are really gorgeous palaces 
hewn out of the rocks. Every Egyptian king seems to 
have built his own sepulchre. 

It was the evening of our last day on the Pellican, and 
long we lingered to watch the loveliest of sunsets over 
this mvstic land. 



60 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 




TOMBS OF MAMELUKES 




COLOSSI OF MEMXOX 



EGYPT 



61 




TYPICAL SAIL-BOAT ON NILE 



62 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

We anchored at Cairo the next afternoon and, early the 
following morning — March 16th — we took train for Alex- 
andria. Henry Augustus and his father, with Patsy, 
sailed for a week's trip to Sicily, after which they joined 
us in Rome. 

William, Sarah, their governess and I sailed for Naples 




SUNRISE OVER STRAITS OF MESSINA 



on the S. S. Prinz Heinrich. Tonight we passed Mt. 
Aetna just as the golden sun was sinking, and soon after 
we were sailing through the Straits of Messina by moon- 
light. The next morning we anchored at Naples after a 
most enjoyable voyage. Each passenger, before disem- 
barking, had to pass before the Health Officer, who merely 
glanced at us as we passed by. 



ROME 

Leaving Naples at ten a. m., we arrived at Rome four 
hours later. There was little of interest en route, except- 
ing the beauty of the Italian scenery, with snow-covered 
mountains and the fresh, summer-like appearance of the 
fertile valleys. On the train we were glad to meet some 
Americans. After conversing with them for a while, they 
asked Sarah where her home was, and she, in a somewhat 
disconsolate tone, replied: "I used to live in Washington, 
but now I don't know where I live." 

We were delightfully located at the Flora Hotel, just 
adjoining the beautiful gardens of the Pinciana. The 
children were wild with delight to have these gardens to 
run and play in after being so long on board ship. Think 
of being in Rome — Rome, the Eternal City ! I cannot 
realize it even now. A city that it has always been my 
dream and desire to visit ! How familiar we are with the 
pictures of St. Peter's, the Colosseum and the Forum ! 
Now, as we gaze upon them in reality, it is like greeting 
old friends. 

After lunch, we drove to the Lateran Church and, this 
being Holy Week, service was being held there. It is 
one of the finest and most sacred churches in Rome. It 
is the church of the Pope, as Bishop of Rome, and here 
his coronation takes place. On the piazza and in front of 
the edifice stands the Obelisk of the Lateralis, which is a 
hundred and fifteen feet high and was brought from the 
temple of Heliopolis in Egypt. It is the oldest Obelisk in 
Rome. Near the Lateran church stands a small chapel 



64 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

containing the Scala Santa, or Holy Stairs, and legend 
says these were trodden by the feet of Jesus. They were 
brought from Jerusalem by the Empress St. Helena, and 
no one is allowed to ascend them, except on their knees; 
so, following this custom and in devout meditation, we 
ascended the twenty-eight steps on our knees. 

This morning we spent in St. Peter's. It has been 
truthfully said that this is the largest and most beautiful 
church in the world. Our first glimpse was the one that 
is so familiar to us all from photographs. The beautiful 
dome; the great, broad piazzas, and the tall, foaming 
fountains on both sides, with the sun shining from a cloud- 
less sky, was a sight of rare impressiveness. The interior 
is one of magnificence and beauty and surely is beyond all 
powers of description. Walking up the long nave, we see 
the rarest and richest of marbles, art in statues and the 
finest works of art in mosaics adorn the walls. The ceil- 
ing is a rich canopv ablaze with gold. One cannot meas- 
ure the great distances in St. Peter's and, only by con- 
trasting the living, moving monuments, can we form any 
idea of its colossal proportions. One can gaze up into 
the dome and read purple mosaic letters that are six feet 
in length on a gold ground. Near the altar is the famous 
bronze statue of St. Peter sitting in a chair ; in one hand 
holding the keys of heaven, while the other is in an up- 
lifted position. The great toe of the statue is worn 
smooth by the kisses of the many pilgrims to its shrine. 

This morning we drove to the Piazza del Popolo, where 
we were interested in seeing the many different divergent 
streets. In the center there is an obelisk brought from 
Egypt, and around it are four fountains. 

From the Piazza del Popolo we walked up to the high 
hill of the gardens, from which point we had a glorious 
view of Rome. At the foot of these gardens Nero was 
born. 



ROME 65 

This afternoon we visited the church of St. Maria Mag- 
giore. The interior was particularly impressive and har- 
monious. Along each side of its magnificent nave there 
are twenty-two beautiful, big Ionic columns with a frieze 
of mosaic pictures representing scenes from the Old Testa- 
ment. The entire wall behind and over the chancel is in 
exquisite mosaics. Directly in front of this church stands 
one single, beautiful Corinthian column with a bronze 
figure of the Virgin Mary on its top. 

This morning we strolled through the lovely Pinciana 
Gardens to the Museum ; but unfortunately it was closed. 
Then we visited some of the attractive shops before re- 
turning to our hotel. 

This is Easter morning, and I was awakened by the 
musical chimes from St. Peter's. Ever since our arrival 
in Rome the weather has been cold and very windy. To- 
day, however, is ideal for Easter. The children and 1 
attended Easter service at St. Peter's, where the singing- 
was superb. Although thousands of people thronged the 
church, it did not seem crowded. 

This afternoon we strolled through the Borghese Gar- 
dens where we saw Roman aristocracy driving and walk- 
ing. We then visited the church of St. Maria del Popolo 
which contains many fine paintings. One of the small 
chapels in the church was designed and decorated by 
Raphael, and an exquisite painting of his Nativity hangs 
over the altar. 

This morning we spent in the superb Sistine Chapel in 
the Vatican. The entire ceiling is truly magnificent. It 
contains exquisite frescoes by Michael Angelo. I like 
especially the scenes in the center of the ceiling, from the 
Old Testament, and the frescoes of the prophets. The 
Last Judgment occupies the entire space at one end of 
the chapel, and was not as pleasing to me as many others. 
From here we drove to the church of St. Pietro in Vincoli 



66 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

— St. Peter in chains — where we saw the masterpiece 
statue of Moses by Michael Angelo. The gigantic figure 
is seated in a chair, with his long beard flowing below his 
waist and his horned head and eyes so full of fire looking 
as if he were to rise up and shout laws, thus producing 
chaos and confusion rather than giving peace to all the 
world. Near the altar we saw the chains that are sup- 
posed to have bound St. Peter in prison. 

This morning we walked to the Pantheon, the best 
preserved of all the ancient buildings in Rome. It is a 
most impressive structure. In front there are sixteen 
great granite columns that are forty-five feet high. The 
interior has an immense rotunda, and the only light in 
the building comes from an opening in the center of the 
great dome. It was built as a pagan temple, but later 
was consecrated as a Christian church. This entire struc- 
ture, when built, was covered or encased in white marble ; 
but only pieces of that now remain. The Pantheon is 
the burial place of Italy's celebrated and gifted men, 
Raphael's tomb being conspicuous among the rest. 

After visiting the Pantheon, we went to the church of 
St. Maria Sophra Minerva, the only important Gothic 
church in Rome. Its columns are all imitation of marble. 
There is a painting in one of the chapels, said to be the 
work of Fra Angelico. The statue of Christ, by Michael 
Angelo, is very fine. In one of the chapels, over the altar, 
hangs a beautiful painting — a head of Christ — by Peru- 
gino. 

Today we set out to see the beautiful palace of Berber- 
ini, also the art gallery that contains some very fine paint- 
ings. Our interest here, however, was centered in the 
two beautiful portraits of Beatrice Cenci by Guido Reni. 
In the palace we saw an exquisite statue of Innocence 
by Canova. 



ROME 67 

Then we went to the Cappuccini Church, where we saw 
the magnificent paintings by Guido Reni of the Archangel 
Michael trampling the Devil. Our guide, a Cappuccini 
monk, then had us descend to the Chapel of the Dead, 
where we saw skulls upon skulls, placed one upon the 
other, covering the entire wall. We also saw perfect 
skeletons of monks in their robes. Frescoes in the ceil- 
ing were formed of different bones and chandeliers were 
made out of skulls, producing a most horrible and grue- 
some sight. 

Tt is just two months and two days since we left Bos- 
ton, and I have today received my first mail since T have 
been in Europe. Our mail was delayed after we changed 
our plans and decided to take the trip to Egypt. We did 
not have any mail forwarded from Paris until we returned 
to Italy. How eagerly I devoured each and every home 
letter! Mother sent me several postals from Texas, 
where she had gone on account of Ed's sickness. I had 
such a good letter from father, and one from Anna told 
me the good news that she expects to sail about June first 
for Europe, and will meet Ruth in Paris — I hope to join 
them as soon as possible. Other warmly welcomed let- 
ters were received from Will, Belle, Ezra, Brainard, 
Lucy, and one from Cousin Beckie Henderson. 

This afternoon we visited the Quirinal Palace, where 
the king and queen of Italy reside. We there caught a 
glimpse of the Crown Prince, who was riding horseback 
in the palace grounds. On our way back to the hotel, we 
stopped at the shops and purchased postals and photo- 
graphs of Rome. 

This has been an interesting and strenuous day spent 
at the Capitoline. In the piazza in front of the Capitoline 
is the finest bronze equestrian statue in the world, and is, 
perhaps, one representing the most beautiful character in 



68 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



history — Marcus Aurelius. Marcus Aurelius is sitting on 
his steed, with his hand stretched forth not to utter a 
command, but a benediction. In the Hall of Sculpture 
we saw many fine busts of the world's most illustrious 
men — Julius Caesar, Cicero, Homer, Socrates, and a beau- 













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GWEDA, HENRY AUGUSTUS, WILLIAM BRADLEY 

tiful bust of Marcus Aurelius as a little boy. In the 
center of one room is the noble and pathetic figure of the 
Dying Gladiator. Another gem of this room is the Fawn 
of Praxitiles, a statue of a young man leaning against the 
stump of a tree, his only covering a lion's skin. The 



ROME 69 

entire figure is marvelously graceful. Among the other 
statues worthy of note are a fine Greek sculpture of Venus 
and a bronze figure of a boy extracting a thorn from his 
foot. Here is also seen the bronze wolf with the small 
figures of Romulus and Remus. In the Art Gallery we 
saw the painting, so beautiful in form and color, of St. 
Sebastian by Guido Reni ; also two fine Vandykes. 

How glad we were today to welcome Harry and Henry 
Augustus and Patsy back from their two weeks' trip to 
Sicily ! What a wonderful trip they did have ! Henry 
Augustus rushed into the room with a bound and greeted 
me by saying: "Maminear, I have a watch and my first 
pair of suspenders, and now 1 am a man!" (He is just 
seven and a half years old.) 

This morning Harry, the children and I walked through 
the beautiful Rorghese Gardens to the Art Gallery and to 
the Hall of Statuary. As we were strolling through the 
Hall of Statuary little William said: "Maminear, are 
these all brothers and sisters, and which is the father and 
mother?" In this Hall is a fine statue of the Princess 
Borghese, a sister o f Napoleon I ; also a Venus by Canova 
which is considered one of his best works. 

This afternoon we visited the church of St. Maria del 
Popolo, then drove to St. Peter's, where we saw several 
babies being baptized. Later, we attended a service in 
the chapel. Just at the hour of sunset, we drove to the 
church Trinita del Monte and heard a song service by the 
French Nuns. As we came out of the church, the sun 
was just sinking behind the purple hills of Rome, and 
what a superb sight ! 

Today we drove to the American University, to give 
our letter from Cardinal Gibbons to Father Brandi, in 
order to have an audience wifh Pope Pius X. Then we 
drove to the Vatican, but were too late to be admitted. 
However, we were told that word would be sent us when 
to return. 



70 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



This afternoon we made onr first trip to the Colos- 
seum. It is one of the largest theatres ever built, and 
surely it is a colossal and impressive ruin. Tier after 
tier of seats extend to its very top ; its walls are pierced 
with innumerable windows and other openings ; its great 
arena, where gladiatorial combats took place, is entered 




THE COLOSSEUM 



by trap doors from beneath — here the wild animals were 
kept in dungeons. 

Today we visited the church of St. Maria in Aracoeli. 
Here we saw the strange and famous image of the Bam- 
bino, an immense painted doll richly decorated with bits 
of jewelry — necklaces, rings, etc. The Bambino repre- 
sents Christ as a child. 



ROME 71 

This evening while at dinner we were quite excited 
when told there was a messenger from the Vatican. We 
knew he had come to arrange for our audience with His 
Holiness, the Pope. 

Early this morning with our papal costumes in readi- 
ness, Harry, the two boys and I started for the Vatican. 
A black dress and a black lace veil for the head, and no 
gloves, are the customary costume ; also a dress suit for 
Harry and white neckties for the little boys. After ar- 
riving at the Vatican, we were ushered through several 
richly decorated rooms ; then, waiting for some time, we 
were shown into a red room containing only a very large 
chair covered with red and gold. With about twenty 
other persons we were asked to stand, take hands and 
form a circle. Soon his holiness entered, when we all 
knelt. The Pope walked slowly around, and each one 
of us took his hand and kissed his seal ring. He spoke 
French to the little boys and patted them on their cheeks. 
After he had walked around the circle, he stood in the 
center and gave us his blessing in Latin, blessing "all 
present — all families represented and all in mind." It 
was a great and solemn occasion. The Pope is a dear old 
man, and I do not wonder that all Rome love him as they 
do. He was dressed in a long flowing white robe and 
wore a small white cap. 

We walked through about ten or more rooms. The 
Pope was giving audiences in four different rooms and, 
in some, there were over a hundred people ; so we were 
fortunate in our small number. 

Today, also, we visited the Corsini Art Gallery, where 
we saw many famous and beautiful paintings. I liked 
best the Madonna and Child by Murillo, and Vandyke's 
portrait of himself. Then we crossed the street to the 
Farnesia Palace. Here the walls are embellished with 
famous frescoes by Raphael. 



72 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Afterwards we went to the Cardinal's Church, or St. 
Maria in Trastevere, which is richly decorated. Its floor 
is entirely covered with mosaic marbles. Today, also, we 
viewed the ruins of the Forum. We saw. the famous 
fragments of historic Roman temples. Conspicuous 
among these is the Arch of Constantine and the Arch of 
Titus. After Julius Caesar was assassinated by Brutus 
in the Pantheon, his body was brought to the Forum and 
cremated. Here, likewise, Mark Anthony delivered his 
famous funeral oration. The plan of St. Peter's is copied 
from the Basilica of Constantine in the Forum. 

Today we set out to see some of the churches. First 
we drove to the St. Giovanni Laterano, and then I vis- 
ited for the second time the Scala Santa. Harry, Henry 
Augustus, little William Bradley and I ascended, as is 
the custom, the Sacred Stairs on our knees. When Harry 
was about half way up the stairs, his hat dropped out of 
his pocket, and no one discovered it until we were all at 
the top. The little boys were much amused, and started 
to go back after it ; but the indignant guide would not 
allow them to. Later, however, little William Bradley 
started at the foot of the stairs again on his knees and at 
last rescued the hat for his father. The episode made us 
almost hysterical with laughter, but the solemn, sober 
guide did not appreciate the joke. 

We then drove to the St. Maria Maggiore and to the 
St. Lorenzo. These churches contain many beautiful 
paintings. 

This morning I spent in the attractive and fascinating 
shops. In the afternoon Harry and I attended a lecture 
on the Palatine Hill. We walked through the ruins 
while listening to the speaker. Among the ruins of in- 
terest was a Roman house, and the Stadium that stood 
between the palace of Augustus and that of the emperor 



ROME 73 

Nero. Nero, one of the most cruel emperors, burned 
Rome, and, while the Eternal City was in flames, this 
lawless ruler played his fiddle. The Golden House of 
Nero was the most magnificent ever built. 

Today we made the delightful excursion to Tivoli, 
traveling" by train along the ancient road running through 
the Campagna. Our first stop was near a milk-white, 
strong-smelling sulphur stream. A short ride further 
soon brought us to the Villa d'Este, where we walked 
through beautiful and extensive gardens filled with wild 
flowers, fountains and running streams. It was in these 
gardens Tasso and Shelley wrote their exquisite poems. 
We then drove through the town of Tivoli, and around 
a great ravine where we viewed the colossal water-falls 
sending forth their silvery spray. A drive along the 
famous avenue of cypress trees brought us to Hadrian's 
Villa, where we explored the imposing rooms of one of 
the biggest palaces ever built. 

This morning Harry and I went to the Rospighliosi, 
where we viewed with great delight Guido Reni's famous 
painting, Aurora. It occupies the entire ceiling of one 
room. The soft and harmonious colors in the superb 
figure of Aurora scattering roses as she seems to be 
sailing along on the golden clouds is, indeed, exquisite. 
While Apollo is being drawn in his chariot, one can easily 
imagine the hurry, and the tumult of the clashing chariot. 
What a noble piece of work Guido Reni has here pro- 
duced ! 

After this, we drove to the Vatican Art Gallery, which 
contains many masterpieces. We gazed with admiration 
on some of Raphael's works of art : the Annunciation, 
the Holy Family, and the Transfiguration — his last work, 
as the death of the great artist occurred soon after its com- 
pletion — this famous painting hung over his death-bed. 
Paintings of other noted artists we liked were Guercino's 



74 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Incredulity of St. Thomas ; Murillo's Adoration of the 
Shepherds ; and Titian's Madonna and Saints. 

Today we took the drive along the Appian Way, where 
we saw the ruins of many famous tombs. Here, also, is 
the Circus Maximus and the Arch of Drusus under which 
St. Paul and St. Peter passed on their way to Rome, 
where they were taken prisoners. We then drove to the 
Quo Vadis church on the Appian Way. This is where, 
tradition says, our Lord appeared to St. Peter, saying : 
"Domini, quo vadis?" This church contains a beautiful 
statue of Christ by Michael Angelo. Over one foot is 
a covering of bronze protecting it from the kisses of 
ardent tourists. 

Our next stop was at the church of St. Sebastian, where 
we saw a beautiful statue of St. Sebastian over his own 
tomb. He is represented as lying down, with four arrows 
piercing his body. From here, with lighted tapers, we 
entered the dark and narrow passages of the Catacombs 
which cover five hundred miles. I had a thrilling expe- 
rience here ; for, just as we were about to enter the 
Catacombs, a lady walking directly in front of me set fire 
with her candle to her hat, and it was all ablaze in a 
moment. Instantly I put my hand on the flame just in 
time to prevent any serious results. 

After leaving the Catacombs, we visited the magnifi- 
cent Basilica of St. Paul's, outside the walls. The altar 
is of beautiful mosaics, and the nave, with its four rows 
of great Corinthian columns, numbering one hundred, is 
most impressive. Seventy-four portraits of the Popes 
form a frieze around the top of the walls. 

We stopped next at the English cemetery, where we 
saw the graves of the two great English writers — Shelley 
and Keats. Shelley was drowned ; but, his body having 
been found, the grave contains his heart. Keats died with 
the request that no name should be put on his tomb, but 



ROME 



75 



that he desired this inscription : "Here lies one whose 
name was writ in water," meaning it would soon fade 
away. 

After lunch we had a beautiful drive up around the 
Garibaldi statue ; then we drove to the church of St. 




TIIK CHILDREN AT PLAY 



Cecelia, which contains a beautiful and richly decorated 
chapel beneath it. Here also is what is supposed to have 
been the home of St. Cecelia. 

This morning Harry and I stopped at the stores and 
purchased a beautiful water-color of St. Peter's. Tn the 



76 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

afternoon we went with the children's little Italian friend, 
Gweda, out to the Pinciana Gardens and enjoyed watch- 
ing the sports there. There is much more recreation in 
the parks in Rome than in America : priests, students, and 
every one join in playing baseball, football and other 
games. The band played and all Roman aristocracy 
turned out. 

The children had a fine ride through these gardens in 
a miniature coach drawn by two small donkeys. 

Tonight Harry and I went out to see the illuminations 
of the Colosseum. What a wonderful and weird sight it 
was ! Red, green, yellow and purple lights illuminating 
the hundreds of dark places at the same time. 

This morning we drove to the Keats-Shelley Memorial 
House ; but found it closed ; then we made our second 
visit to the Corsini Art Gallery and feasted our eyes on 
Murillo's exquisite Madonna and Child which occupies 
one small room. Then we paid a parting visit to St. 
Peter's. 

On our way back to the hotel we stopped at the Castle 
St. Angelo, where we climbed to the top and had a fine 
view of Rome. This was built for Hadrian's tomb an 1 
was also used as a prison. 



FLORENCE 

This morning we were all up bright and early, ready 
to make our departure for Florence. Gweda, our little 
Italian friend, came to the train to see us off. En route 




FLORENCE FROM SAN MINIATO DRIVE 

there was a great deal of beautiful Italian scenery to be 
enjoyed. After a long six-hours' journey, we arrived at 
Florence very tired. 

We are staying at the historic and interesting Villa 



78 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Trollope, the favorite stopping place of many well-known 
English and American writers. Among them we may 
mention George Eliot, who wrote most of Romola here ; 
Robert Browning, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Nathaniel 
Hawthorne, Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, and Frances 
Hodgson Burnett. Florence is a most attractive city, 
and it has been well named the "City of Flowers," for 
they are here in great profusion. 

This morning we visited the studio of Mr. Larkin 
A fead. the sculptor. He had a most exquisite piece of 
statuary, called The Recording Angel, that Harry pur- 
chased as a memorial to his father and mother, to be 
placed in the Westminster family lot in Vermont. Later 
we drove to the Piazza Michael Angelo, where we saw a 
fine bronze statue of David by Michael Angelo. 

After lunch, we had a delightful drive through the 
Boboli Gardens. We wandered through the vistas of tall 
arching trees until we reached the highest part of the 
gardens leading to the tower. From here we had a su- 
perb view of Florence. 

Pisa. 

After a two hours' ride on an express train, Harry and 
I arrived at the attractive city of Pisa. A twenty minutes' 
drive then brought us to the imposing group of buildings 
that we had long desired to visit : namely, the Campanile, 
the Leaning Tower, Cathedral, Baptistry and Campo 
Santo. Our first stop was at the Campo Santo, which is 
built in the shape of an immense arcade with great arched 
windows surrounding it. The mural paintings of the 
Fourteenth Century were most curious, depicting scenes 
on the solemnity of death. Then we drove to the Bap- 
tistry, which is built entirely of marble. This contains a 
beautiful marble pulpit, supported by seven columns; also 
a great octagonal marble font. Next we visited the 
magnificent Cathedral. It is built entirelv of white mar- 



FLORENCE 79 

ble, inlaid with black marble. The ceiling is richly cof- 
fered with gold. There are many exquisite paintings to 
be seen here, and a particularly pleasing one of St. Agnes 
and the Lamb by Andrea del Sarto. The celebrated 
Leaning' Tower, erected in 1174, has six distinct sections 
of columns, decreasing in size to the top; and it is 17 ( > 
feet high. This tower is much out of the perpendicular, 
giving it a leaning appearance. We did not notice the 
slant on going up ; but coming down, it made us qtiite 
dizzy. From the top we had a fine view of Pisa and the 
surrounding country. 

St. Marco. 

This afternoon we visited the famous monastery of St. 
Marco. After entering, we lingered for some time in the 
cloister, which we found a most attractive and delightful 
place. We then went into the different chapels and saw 
many beautiful frescoes by Fra Angelico, and especially 
the magnificent Crucifixion in the Chapel House. We then 
ascended the stairs leading to many cells. Here one sees 
the lovely Annunciation and St. Domini, embracing the 
Cross, by Fra Angelico. They are both painted on the 
walls of the corridor. 

As we further visited the different cells, we saw Fra 
Angelico's most exquisite frescoes, painted on the white- 
washed walls during his life in the monastery. Then we 
visited two small cells that were of deep and great inter- 
est, having been occupied by Savonarola. On the wall 
hangs the painting showing where he was burned to death 
— the Palazzo Signorea in Florence. One of these cells 
contains a picture showing a geneological tree of the 
monks, and the name of Savonarola is almost obliterated 
by kisses. 

Adjoining the monastery is the old, gloomy, bare-look- 
ing church of St. Marco. 

Next we went to the Palazzo Riccardi, which was once 



80 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

a palace, as its name indicates. Our chief interest here 
was the little chapel with its beautiful and gorgeous fresco 
paintings, representing a procession winding through a 
rocky country. 

Our next point of interest was the rough-faced, plast- 
tered church of San Lorenzo. It was here that Savona- 
rola preached his most stirring sermons, even against the 
Medicis, who were patrons of the church. Connected 
with the church is the Medicina Chapel filled with mag- 
nificent marbles. From here we went to the new Sacristy 
built by Michael Angelo, which contains his two gigantic 
and splendid statues of Dawn and Twilight, and Day and 
Morning. 

Our next stop at the St. Croce Church was most inter- 
esting as it contains many magnificent monuments of 
Italy's illustrious men. Conspicuous among them are the 
tombs of Michael Angelo, who died in Rome in 1564, and 
that of Dante. 

Bright and early this morning we drove to the Pitti and 
Uffizi Art Galleries, in which are many art treasures of 
the world. After going through the Pitti Gallery, we 
walked under cover all the way across the Arno, through 
avenues of portraits lining the walls on both sides until 
we reached the Uffizi Gallery. These galleries contain 
many paintings by Raphael, the most beautiful and cele- 
brated being the Madonna of the Chair (Madonna della 
Sedia). There is a very pretty story connected with this 
painting, that explains why it is always seen in a circular 
frame. One day, the great master was strolling through 
a charming bit of country when he came upon a pretty 
family group that appealed so strongly to his artistic sense 
that he paused and gazed upon it. A lovely young mother 
was seated there and in her arms held a beautiful and 
rosy babe. Raphael asked permission to draw them as 
they were grouped and, this being granted, he was ap- 



FLORENCE 81 

palled by the discovery that he was without paper upon 
which to produce his picture. However, a barrel stand- 
ing near by was put into service and so, upon its rounded 
top, this famous masterpiece was drawn. 

Fra Angelico's Coronation of the Virgin and the Choir 
of Angels in this Gallery also appealed strongly to me. 

This afternoon we made the excursion to Fiesole, where 
we had a magnificent and extensive view of Florence. 

Today we visited with great interest the house where 
Michael' Angelo lived. This house is most interesting 
and contains many paintings by Michael Angelo and his 
pupils ; also many original drawings of his great works — 
a wax model of the great David and a drawing of his 
masterpiece, the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in the Vati- 
can Palace at Rome. The house has been ornamented 
and preserved by his pupils, in testimony of their admira- 
tion and gratitude. The contrast was, indeed, great when 
we next visited the cheerless and barren house where the 
great poet Dante was born in 1274. We saw two busts of 
Dante and a beautiful marble bust of Beatrice, his sweet- 
heart. 

^> then went to the Accademei Belle Arti and, in the 
rotunda facing the entrance stands the gigantic and cele- 
brated David hewn by Michael Angelo in his twenty-sixth 
year. There are many beautiful old paintings to be seen 
here. 

Today we went to the English Protestant Cemetery, 
where Elizabeth Barrett Browning is buried; also Rev. 
Theodore Parker. 

This afternoon we viewed the Loggia Lanza, built in 
1376. It is an open, vaulted court and contains several 
intensely interesting statues in bronze and marble. Then 
we walked to the picturesque Piazza della Signorea. 
Here, in front of the beautiful and massive Neptune 
fountain, is the bronze slab marking the spot where Sav- 



82 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

onarola was burned to death. 

We visited this morning' the Cloistro della Scalzo, where 
we saw exquisite frescoes painted in 1517 by Andrea del 
Sarto. The scenes are chosen from the life of John the 
Baptist, and are all done in soft, sepia colors. 

We next visited the church of the Annunziata. It is a 
large and beautiful structure and contains many gorgeous 
chapels. Just opposite this church is the Foundling Hos- 
pital, or Spedale degli Innocenti. The exterior decora- 
tions of the building are very curious and significant, be- 
ing covered with blue-colored medallions of infants in 
swaddling clothes. 

We then drove to the Or San Michele Church, erected 
in 1337 Around its exterior are many small statues. 

Our next stop was at the St. Maria Novella, where we 
saw the famous Madonna by Cimabne. 

Another church was the St. Maria Magdalena de Pazzi, 
where we saw two beautiful frescoes by Andrea del Sarto. 
The chapel house also contains a beautiful fresco of the 
Crucifixion by Perugino. 

Today we went to the studio of Mr. Carmichael and 
arranged with him to paint a portrait of little Sarah dur- 
ing our stay in Florence. This afternoon we visited the 
archaeological museum, where we saw many beautiful 
black vases and bronzes ; also an Egyptian war chariot 
and a bronze statue of Minerva, found in 1541. Here we 
also saw an exquisite collection of Florentine tapestries. 

From here we went to the National Museum, or massive 
Rargello, which was originally built for a palace. W r e 
walked first out into the colonnade court, which is ex- 
tremely interesting and picturesque with its rich and 
effective colorings — a popular retreat for artists. Many 
noble Florentines have been beheaded in this court. We 
went into the Chapel Magdalena, covered with frescoes 
by Giotto. In one of these frescoes Dante is represented. 



FLORENCE 83 

We saw in the Donnatello room many beautiful statues — 
one of St. John the Baptist and two of David. 

In the La Badia Church we saw a masterpiece by 
Filippo Lippi. 

This afternoon we visited the great Cathedral of St. 
Marea del Fiore or Duomo, which is located right in the 
heart of Florence. Its exterior is elaborately decorated 
in black and white marble ; but there is very little of inter- 
est in the church. The Baptistry stands nearby. It is 
a large black-and-white octagonal structure and is entered 
by large bronze doors built in 1330. Adjoining the Cath- 
edral stands the Campanile which is the highest and most 
elaborate tower ever built. 

Today we spent the entire morning on our last visit to 
the Pitti and Uffizi Galleries, as in two days we leave 
Florence for Venice. We literally feasted our eyes on 
these rare masterpieces. One never wearies of Raphael's 
exquisite Madonna and Child and the many other rare 
paintings seen here — the Murillos, Titians, Rubens, Rem- 
brandts, Guido Renis, Vandykes, Peruginos, Filippi 
Lippis. 



VENICE 

This morning we were all up bright and early as we 
were leaving Florence for Venice. The ride was long 
and tiresome, covering about eight hours. 

Our arrival in Venice was quite novel ; as our train 




THE RIALTO 



passed over a long bridge or trestle before bringing us 
to the station. A short walk, and we reached the Grand 
Canal, where it seemed as if hundreds of gondolas were 
waiting for tourists. One gondola was large enough for 
our party of seven, and soon we were gliding" gently and 



VENICE 



85 



noiselessly along through the canals of Venice. Oh ! the 
delight and joy of it all. Surely Venice is an enchanting 
city, and its novelty is unique — water everywhere — deep 
and dirty, too, not at all the clean, blue pretty Venice of 
our imagination. 

This morning, all eager for our first glimpse of the city, 




ST. MARKS SQUARE 



we started out through the narrow alley-like streets that 
lead to the big, broad, beautiful Piazza of St. Marco. 
Here the children were well entertained, feeding the many 
pigeons that flew about. So tame were they that they 
alighted upon the children's shoulders and ate grain from 
their hands. Leaving the children with the pigeons, 



86 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Harry and I sauntered into the Cathedral of St. Marco. 
This is truly a gorgeous cathedral with its elaborate deco- 
rations of gold. 

Then we went to the Dosres' Palace not far distant. 




IN A GOXDOLA 

This is a building of rare architectural beauty and it con- 
tains many fine old paintings. The well-known Bridge of 
Sighs adjoins this edifice, and over it many a prisoner has 
been led to a fearful fate. 

After lunch we took a gondola ride, making a tour of 



VENICE 



87 



the Grand Canal. We stopped and visited the church of 
St. Maria della Salute, where we saw a beautiful paint- 
ing by Tintoretta, the Marriage at Cana, or the Miracle of 
Turning Water into Wine. Again we stopped at the 






{ t<\ 1ft ik i } * 



THE CHILDREN FEEDING THE PIGEONS 

church of St. Georgia Maggiore, where we saw magnifi- 
cent monuments of Titian, Canova and others. Next we 
visited the church of St. Toma, containing a masterpiece 
of Titian. 

We returned to our gondola and stopped now at the 



88 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



Glass Factory, where we saw many rare specimens of 
Venetian glass. The guide was much concerned lest the 
children might break some of their perishable products, 




HARRY, AND THE BOYS 



and requested us to come back another day without them. 
We then visited the lace factory and saw many children 
and women making the beautiful Venetian lace by hand. 
There was considerable excitement yesterday afternoon, 



VENICE 89 

caused by the arrival of the royal yacht of England, with 
the queen on board. It was anchored just opposite our 
hotel. 

This morning' I spent in tbe fascinating and tempting 
shops and had just returned to the Regina Hotel fortu- 
nately in time to see Her Majesty Queen Alexandra, and 
her party, sail by in gondolas. When little Sarah came 
in, I was glad to know that she, too, had seen the queen 
on the Piazzo of St. Marco, feeding the pigeons. 

Tonight Harry and I walked up to the Piazzo St. Marco 
where everything was brilliantly illuminated. Throngs 
assembled and made a gay and festive scene. 



OBERAMMERGAU 

Tins morning we hastened our departure from Venice, 
owing to our constant anxiety about the children's safetv, 
there being so much water everywhere. Our train left at 




BRENNER PASS 



eight A. M. for Lake Garda via Verona and Decenzano, 
where we boarded the boat for our trip across Lake Garda. 
The scenery was magnificent with the wild and rugged 
peaks of the snow-covered Alps in the distance and the 



OBERAMMERGAU 91 

water in the lake the brightest and bluest I have ever seen. 
Lake Garda is one of the largest of the many beautiful 
Italian lakes. 

Riva. 

We arrived at Riva, Austria, after a three hours' most 
delightful sail across this lovely lake. Riva is a small and 
mountainous place, beautifully located on Lake Garda, 
right in the Alpine region. The hotel is excellent. 

This morning was clear and cloudless and we were all 
out early for a stroll in the beautiful gardens before leav- 
ing Riva. At ten o'clock we took a narrow-gauge rail- 
road to Mori, passing en route much wild and mountain- 
ous scenery. At Mori we changed cars for Innsbruck, 
and every moment of the journey was filled with excite- 
ment. The ride over, through and under the Alps was 
wonderful and thrilling in its grandeur. From the car 
window we had a magnificent view of the snow-covered 
and sharp-pointed purple peaks of the Dolomites. Then 
we passed on through the marvelous Brenner Pass, pre- 
senting wonderful landscape pictures through the high, 
snow-covered mountain vistas. 

After our long journey, we reached Innsbruck at six 
o'clock. This is a delightful little mountainous town, and 
the capital of the Tyrol. It lies at the base of lofty and 
rugged mountains. 

Innsbruck. 

This morning we had just finished breakfast when 
we heard of King Edward's death. Queen Alexandra 
reached home from her Italian cruise the night before 
the king died. 

We took a drive around this pretty little town of Inns- 
bruck, stopping first at the Hofkirche, which is the West- 
minster Abbey of the Tyrol, as it is the resting-place of 
its illustrious dead. The most conspicuous tomb here is 
that of Maximilian I. It stands ri°ht in the center of the 



92 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

church and is surrounded by twenty-eight colossal bronze 
statues, one being that of King Arthur of England. 

We next proceeded to the Silver Chapel, named from 
the silver image it contains of the Virgin. Across the 
street is the Hofburg, or palace, where we were shown 
through. As we looked out of its windows, we saw the 
King Regent starting on a horseback ride in his gay uni- 
form trimmed in red. He rode a beautiful white horse, 
making a striking appearance. 

Leaving the chapel, we drove to the House with the 
Golden Roof, richly decorated in rococo style. 

This morning Harry and I braved a storm and went 
to the Episcopal Church. The snow has fallen thick and 
fast all day ; so everything is now covered with a white 
mantle. Having seen no snow all winter, it is strange 
to see it so late as May eighth. 

Garmisch. 

This morning we started for the shops and purchased 
some heavy flannels on account of this cold weather. 
After lunch we left Innsbruck in an automobile for Gar- 
misch, a distance of forty miles. The first part of the 
ride was pleasant. We seemed to go right up on top 
of these wonderful high mountains surrounding Gar- 
misch ; then conditions changed and we encountered a 
blinding snowstorm which made it very cold and disagree- 
able. It was a great disappointment that these fine views 
were obscured by the unseasonable elements. Garmisch 
is a petite, picturesque village, superbly situated at the 
foot of these mighty mountains. 

This morning Harry and Henry Augustus went in an 
automobile to Oberammergau, where they will spend the 
night, and tomorrow see the first performance of the 
Passion Play. Another snowfall and some rain today. 

This evening Harry and Henry Augustus returned 
from Oberammer°au in time for a late dinner. Thev re- 



OBERAMMERGAU 



93 



ported the play wonderful. This has been a perfect day 
and we have all been out for a stroll. 



Munich. 

This morning Harry and I left the children at Gar- 
misch and started for a two days' stay in Munich before 




OLD GATEWAY, MUNICH 



going to Oberammergau. On arrival in Munich we se- 
cured very good accommodations and then took a drive 
around this beautiful and attractive city. Munich is 
more like our American cities than any we have yet seen, 
with its wide, clean and well-shaded streets and its many 
gardens and parks which strongly suggested our own 



94 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

beautiful Washington. The buildings are large and im- 
posing and there are many handsome homes there 

Tonight we slept under, instead of on top of, a feather 
bed. Surely we have reached the land of ein, zwei, drei, 
otherwise known as "Deutschland" — 

"The people live for comfort and dress not too 

grand ; 
But are healthy, happy, loving Miinchener beer 

and the music of the band." 

We have had terrible times in our sight-seeing with the 
eingangs and the ait f gangs; for, when we wanted to get 
out, we invariably found ourselves at the "going in place." 

This morning we first visited the Glyptothek, contain- 
ing a fine collection of antique sculpture. In the Assyrian 
room we saw on the walls colossal reliefs of winged and 
horned genii which were excavated from Nineveh in 
1843. In the Egyptian room we saw a bronze statue of 
Horus, the sun god, with which we became so familiar 
when traveling in Egypt. The most interesting room 
of all is the ^genitan room, containing groups repre- 
senting periods following the Persian Wars, 480 B. C. 
The "Dying Trojan," or the "Fallen Warrior," and many 
others showing a wonderful perfection in form are among 
the finest art treasures in Munich. Next we went to the 
New Pinakothek, which contains a collection of the paint- 
ings by modern Munich masters. Opposite the entrance 
stands the gigantic model of Victory. Victory is a large 
figure of a woman standing in a chariot and driving four 
immense lions. In one room there are twenty-three 
Greek landscapes by Rottman. The paintings are dis- 
tinguished for their unusual transparent light effects. 

Then we went to the Schack Gallery, where are to 
be seen excellent copies of the old masters, done by 
modern artists, and one can scarcely tell them from the 
originals. W r e saw copies of The Concert by Titian, 



OBERAMMERGAU 95 

Murillo's famous Madonna and Child, some of Rubens, 
Vandyke, and some of Michael Angelo's. 

Leaving the Schack Gallery, we drove to the St. Boni- 
face church, called the Basilica, one of the finest churches 
in Europe. 

My visit to the Nuremberg toy shops was a real de- 
light to me. I was glad to see and buy for the children 
some of these famous and truly wonderful toys. 

Harry and I drove out this afternoon to the English 
Gardens and there saw a typical scene of German life. 
Here the Germans indulge in beer while listening in de- 
light to the music. Later we took train for Oberammer- 
gau. On our arrival there we received our mail; also a 
cablegram telling of the death of Mr. Harry Reed. 

Oberammerc.au. 

This morning we were awakened by the ringing of the 
church bells. Church is held from five to seven in the 
morning. We got there about six o'clock. Just next 
to us sat Anton Lang, who takes so admirably the part 
of Christ in the Passion Play. 

Returning to our pension, we ate our meager break- 
fast, which consisted of bread, butter and coffee. Prompt- 
ly at eight o'clock we were seated in the play-house among 
six thousand people. At noon there is an interval of two 
hours ; then again the play begins at two o'clock and is 
over at six. 

The presentation of the powerful Passion Play, given 
by these simple, pious, Bavarian peasants, brings every 
decade throngs of tourists from all countries to this ob- 
scure German hamlet. The scenes in the life of Christ 
are so devoutly, reverently and earnestly portrayed by 
these people that one cannot but feel their religious fer- 
vor. The solemnity of the subject and players from be- 
ginning to end makes a strong and lasting impression, 
and no thought of mere "acting" enters the onlookers' 



96 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

mind. Four hundred persons — all from this little village 
of Oberammergau with a population of less than two 
thousand inhabitants — take part in the play. The chorus 
and solos were a particularly effective part of the pro- 
gram. 

On account of the news of Mr. Reed's death, Harry 




VIEW OF OBERAMMERGAU AND PLAV HOUSE 



found it urgent to leave at once for home and decided to 
take Henry Augustus and Patsy with him. They sailed 
from Hamburg for New York May nineteenth. 

This morning William, Sarah, their governess and I 
left Garmisch at nine o'clock, with a coach and four to 
drive to Fiissen, a distance of forty miles. The children 



OBERAMMERGAU 



97 



were delighted with the tinkling" bells around the horses' 
necks and the long, beautiful squirrels' tails hanging on 
their ears. The drive was a glorious one through can- 
yons with many beautiful cascades and snow-covered 
mountains in the distance always in view. We stopped 
for lunch, then continued our drive, arriving at Fiissen 




HOUSE OF ANTON LANG 



in time for a delicious dinner, served in a most attractive 
garden. 

This morning our coach and four came to our hotel 
and, at eight o'clock, we were off to the Bavarian castles. 
We went through only the magnificent castle of Neusch- 
wanstein, built by the extravagant but beauty-loving King 



98 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Ludwig I. The castle is one of the most costly and ele- 
gant ever built. After lunch we took train for Lindau. 
Lindau is situated on the beautiful Lake Constance. 

Zurich. 

This morning bright and early we were up and off on 
the steamer, leaving Lindau at 7 :30 for Constance, sail- 
ing the entire length of the lovely lake. We reached Con- 
stance at eleven o'clock and here we made good connec- 
tions for the train to Zurich. We arrived at Zurich at 
two o'clock and, after going to the Belle Vue Hotel and 
securing rooms, we went for a stroll in the gardens. 
Later we started in search of a store, where I purchased 
a much needed supply of clothing for the children and a 
characteristic German doll for Sarah, to add to her in- 
teresting collection of foreign dolls. 

This evening the children and I enjoyed watching the 
many pretty boats sailing along on the Zurich Zee. 

Lucerne. 

Today after lunch we took train for Lucerne, arriving 
at the Victoria Hotel after a two hours' ride on the train. 
On our first walk through Lucerne, we wandered over 
the many curious and crooked bridges leading to the 
Kurplatz, where we listened to the fine concert given by 
the celebrated Italian orchestra. The Kurplatz is the 
rendezvous of the fashionable, where they meet to listen 
to the excellent music. 

This morning we walked through the curious and 
strange wooden-covered bridge known as the Kapell- 
briicke, which crosses the river diagonally and was built 
in 1333. It contains a series of very old and faded, 
pyramid-shaped paintings beneath the roof, which record 
the heroic deeds of the Swiss. We then continued our 
walk past the many fascinating and attractive shops until 
we came to the romantic nook containing the famous 
Lion of Lucerne. The sight is an impressive one, show- 



OBERAMMERGAU 99 

ing a majestic, magnificent, recumbent wounded lion. It 
was sculptured in the year 1821 by Thorwaldsen and dedi- 
cated to the memory of the Swiss Royal Guards of Paris, 
1789. It is hewn out of an immense and perfectly 
perpendicular rock, surrounded by many beautiful shade 
trees, and, just beneath it, a small stream reflects the life- 
like lion in its waters, making it even more impressive. 
Even the children seemed to feel the inspiration of this 
noble piece of work, and we returned many times to grat- 
ify their childish enthusiasm. 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 

Leaving the children with their governess in Lucerne, 
I was up bright and early this morning, ready to take 
train for Paris. The journey was long and tedious. The 
only event of any importance was when the custom house 
officials boarded the train and scrutinized most carefully 
all my baggage. After six hours' ride I was glad to get 
off the train, and how overjoyed I was to be met by Ruth 
Larner ! 

We drove to the Regina Hotel, where I secured a room. 
Then we drove to Ruth's school on Avenue Victor Hugo. 
What a wonderful drive we did have along the Champs 
Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe ! Innumerable carriages 
and automobiles whizzed about in every direction. 

After a comfortable night's rest, I started out and 
spent this morning at the Louvre, and Ruth Larner came 
to the hotel and lunched with me. 

This afternoon we visited the fascinating shops of gay 
Parec, and then drove to the house where Victor Hugo 
lived. Many of the author's portraits and his own 
sketches are to be seen here ; also his desk, pen-and-ink 
stand and a letter containing his autograph. 

From here we drove to the cathedral of Notre Dame. 
The entire exterior is covered with bronze figures and is 
noted for its innumerable spires ; the interior contains 
one hundred pillars, creating a very impressive appear- 
ance. 

Then we drove to the Eiffel Tower, which is the highest 
monument in the world — just twice as high as the Wash- 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 101 

ington Monument. This enormous structure is entirely 
of iron, giving it an appearance of a great mass of iron 
net-work. 

Leaving the Eiffel Tower, we had a delightful drive 
through the Bois de Bologne, the favorite drive of the 
Parisians. Leaving Ruth Larner at her school, I visited 
the Madeleine on my way back to the hotel. This church 
was built in the style of a Roman temple by Napoleon II. 
The front has an imposing colonnade of massive Corin- 
thian columns. 

This morning I spent most pleasurably and profitably 
at the Louvre, looking at the many beautiful master- 
pieces representing almost every school. Murillo's great- 
est works are to be found here — the Immaculate Con- 
ception and the Holy Family. In one large room there 
are eighteen beautiful, big, historical paintings by Rubens ; 
Rembrandt, noted for his many paintings of himself ; 
Troyons' beautiful and lifelike cattle; Millet's Gleaners; 
Corot's wonderful light effect through the trees ; Madame 
Le Brun's two beautiful and graceful paintings of herself 
and daughter. Here we see the most celebrated portrait 
in the world, the Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci, with 
her sarcastic but bewitching smile. The artist was four 
years in painting it, and he finished it in 1452. Guido 
Reni's Mary Magdalene and Greuze's Broken Pitcher 
are also among these great paintings. One room of the 
Louvre is devoted to the Florentine school. Here we see 
the tender and saintly style of Fra Angelico. Fra Filippg 
Lippi is also represented here. The Louvre possesses 
one authentic work of Cimabue — a Madonna sitting up- 
right in a chair. 

Bright and early this morning I started for Ruth's 
school, where I was delighted to find Anna, who had 
arrived in Paris just last evening, having landed at Cher- 
bourg on the Kron Princessin Cecelie earlier in the dav. 



102 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

This was my first visit to Ruth's school, where I met 
A I me. Marty and was shown through the school. 

Geneva. 

After a most interesting week in Paris, Anna, Ruth 
and I left for Geneva. Passing a comfortable night on 
the train, we reached Geneva at 8 :30 A. M. We went 
to the Peau Rivage and secured rooms ; then we had 
breakfast and took a short stroll before going to the 
American Episcopal Church. The Peau Rivage is beauti- 
fully situated on Lake Geneva and is a most attractive 
hotel. After dinner, we spent some time out on the 
piazza, gazing at majestic Mt. Plane, eighty miles dis- 
tant. This mountain, the highest in Europe, is fifteen 
thousand feet high. 

This afternoon we took a most delightful drive, view- 
ing Mt. Plane from all points, and saw many other inter- 
esting sights. The Protestant Cathedral is built in the 
old quarter of the town and in this cathedral John Calvin 
is supposed to have preached. Near by we saw the house 
in which he lived in 1555. Adjoining the cathedral is 
the church in which John Knox preached. 

Lake Geneva is the largest and most beautiful lake in 
Switzerland. The blue waters of the Rhone and the 
gray waters of the Aare flow side by side and where they 
even unite the waters do not seem to mingle. It makes 
a strange and very unusual impression. 

After spending the morning in the shops and looking 
at the Geneva watches, we hurried back to the Peau 
Rivage for early dejeuner; then we were off on the one 
o'clock boat for Lausanne. The three hours' sail across 
Lake Geneva was delightful ; the scenery was simply 
superb, with the great, towering peaks of the snow-cov- 
ered Alps in the background and Mt. Plane appearing 
and disappearing and the many chateaux and attractive 
Swiss towns borderinef its banks. 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 103 

We reached Lausanne in time for a good dinner. 

This morning we took a walk through this interesting- 
town, which is built on the side of a mountain, so that 
each street is higher than the other, and it has many 
steps leading from one street to another. 

Bl-RNE. 

This morning at eleven o'clock we took train for Berne, 
the capital of Switzerland, and, after a two hours' ride, 
passing through beautiful, rich, well-cultivated country, 
we arrived in time for lunch. Then a delightful drive 
brought us to the curious and celebrated Bear Clock. 
When the hour to strike approaches, a rooster comes out 
and crows ; then a procession of small bears appears and, 
in a merry-go-round way, they parade around the clock 
as many times as the hour strikes. There were many 
men, women and children who had gathered to see the 
clock strike. 

Then came the Garden of Bears, where there were 
seven or eight bruins being fed cake and bread by a 
large crowd of people. 

Interlaken. 

A two hours' ride by train from Berne brought us to 
Lake Thun and Interlaken in time for a late dinner at 
the Grand Hotel des Alps. This morning was perfectly 
clear and cloudless and, just opposite our bedroom win- 
dows, appeared the majestic Jung Fran in its snowy 
splendor. Interlaken is the most beautiful place I have 
ever seen. It is situated in a little, level valley, just be- 
tween Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, with great, lofty 
mountains surrounding it. Interlaken has one principal 
street, on which all the leading hotels are located. There 
are many attractive walks and drives here. 

This morning, June eighth, we left Interlaken on the 
early train for the famous mountain trip to Scheidegg. 



104 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

After passing- through the lovely Lauterbrunnen Valley, 
our train made an abrupt ascent and, traversing a beau- 
tiful wooded valley, skirted by a wild and turbulent 
stream. Across the valley we saw the beautiful Staub- 
bach Falls, meaning Mist. This was the first of the many 
fine and wonderful waterfalls to be seen in this region. 
It descends from a rock, and before it reaches the ground, 
is converted into spray and resembles a silvery veil, and 
is. indeed, beautiful. Many of these dashing and lovely 
falls are caused by the melting snow. 

Our next stop was at Wengenalp, where we had a 
magnificent view of the snow-covered Jung Frau, and, 
indeed, the peaks towered so high they hardly seemed 
visible. The Jung Frau rises 13,670 feet. 

Our train then ascended to greater heights, and it was 
not until we were on the very top of another mountain 
that our train stopped at Scheidegg. The view was mag- 
nificent and surely it required a safe and steady head to 
stand these dizzy heights. At Scheidegg we had lunch 
and took some kodak pictures in the deep snow. I was 
glad when our train began to descend on the other side 
of the mountain into the beautiful Grindewald Valley. 
We passed through walls of snow towering above the 
car. There were many deep, rocky gorges and some 
glaciers to be seen. Then we crossed beautiful, fertile 
fields until we reached Interlaken again, thus ending 
one of the most wonderful mountain trips in the world. 

June ninth we left Interlaken by the early boat, cross- 
ing Lake Brienz to Brienz. The sail was smooth and en- 
joyable. The lake is surrounded by lofty rocks and has 
snow-covered mountains for a background. A beautiful 
road skirts its banks. Numerous streams are seen rising 
on the heights and form beautiful cascades. There are 
many typical and picturesque Swiss cottages to be seen 
on the surrounding hills. We saw the famous and mar- 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 105 

velotis Giesbach Falls, a strong, dashing stream rising 
from the side of a steep mountain and forming a series 
of wonderful cascades until it rushes dashingly into the 
lake. 

At Brienz we took train for Lucerne and at Meiringen 
began the steep ascent across the Brunig Pass. This was 
also a wonderful mountain trip, and the view was one 
of grandeur and great beauty. 

After an absence of two weeks, how relieved and 
thankful I was to get back to the cbildren at Lucerne ! 
We all strolled up to the gardens to see the Lion of 
Lucerne and then Anna and Ruth started for their train 
and left for Zurich on their way to Oberammergau, plan- 
ning to meet again at Heidelberg. 

Heidelberg. 

This morning we were called at five o'clock, and at 
seven o'clock were on the train for Heidelberg, where 
we arrived at one o'clock. A beautiful mountain drive 
brought us to the picturesque and attractive Schloss 
Hotel. It was a bright, beautiful moonlight night, and 
how lovely everything looked ! Our hotel is located so 
high that we have a magnificent view of this lovely val- 
ley. It seems as if I never shall forget the grandeur 
of the Switzerland scenery, and now how beautiful Ger- 
many is ! Indeed, words fail to describe the beauties 
surrounding this quaint and interesting town of Heidel- 
berg. It is encircled by fine forests filled with most at- 
tractive and delightful walks and drives. The air is 
most exhilarating. Just near our hotel stand the solemn 
and stately ruins of the splendid old castle of Heidelberg. 

All day it poured in torrents ; so we have spent the 
day indoors. 

This morning the children and I walked over to the 
castle. Its vastness is marvellous. These ruins are the 
oldest and largest of any castle ever built. Here I pur- 



106 



OUR TRIP ABROAD 



chased a musical Heidelberg" stein for father ; also some 
toys for the children which were ingeniously wrought and 
very novel. We were interested in watching the students 
clad in caps and gowns of many different colors. Anna 
and Ruth arrived from Munich and, after spending the 




ANNA, RUTH LARNER AND WILLIAM BRADLEY 
ON THE RHINE 

night at our hotel, left for Frankfort. They will join the 
children and me at Weisbaden. 

Today at three o'clock we were off for Weisbaden, and 
a short and comfortable two hours' ride brought us to our 
destination. A porter carried our bags, and a short walk 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 107 

of three squares and we were at the Rhein Hotel, where 
I was so glad to find Anna and Ruth had already arrived 
and secured rooms for us. After dinner, we visited the 
shops, and then we had our first taste of German beer, 
which we did not enjoy as much as we had anticipated. 
Leaving Weisbaden at 8:30 A. M. and taking the trolley 
for a short ride to Biebrich, we boarded the steamer for 
our trip down the Rhine to Cologne. The towns built 
on the banks of the Rhine are numerous and we enjoyed 
viewing them from our steamer. The hillsides are com- 
pletely covered with vineyards, from which many famous 
Rhine wines are made. We passed many a historic 
castle. Just opposite the rocks of the Lorelei are the 
Rheinfels, the most imposing ruins on the Rhine. The 
many pretty legends and stories about the castles are 
very interesting. Much of the time there were ruins on 
both sides of the river, keeping us busy darting back and 
forth from side to side of the boat. 

Our first stop was at the attractive town of Coblenz, 
where we saw a fine, big monument of Kaiser Wilhelm II. 
At Boone, our only other stop, there is an unusually 
picturesque bridge with piers representing castles. 

We reached Cologne at five o'clock after a full day of 
much pleasure and interest. Our accommodations for 
the night were the poorest of any we have had since we 
have been in Europe. 

Cologne. 

This morning we first visited the Museum, where we 
saw the beautiful and familiar portrait of Queen Louise 
descending the stairs. Then we went to the church of 
St. Ursula and visited the Golden Chapel containing on 
its walls the bones of many hundreds of virgins that had 
been massacred. Then we made our second visit to the 
celebrated Cologne cathedral, which was built in 1248. 
Its numerous spires are the tallest in the world. 



108 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Cologne is a clingy, dirty city and even its beautiful 
Cathedral looks black and grimy. 

After an early lunch, we took train for Amsterdam 
and were fortunate in securing rooms at the attractive 
Amstel Hotel. 

Amsterdam. 

This morning we took a long car ride. This afternoon 
we all visited the zoological gardens, where they have a 
particularly fine collection of birds — especially parrots. 
When we saw the parrots, the children asked, "Polly, 
sprechen sie English or Deutsch ?" And we all thought 
we heard Polly reply, "Deutsch." 

While we were walking in the gardens, we had quite 
an exciting experience. Little William was with his 
Aunt Anna and Ruth, when, suddenly spying me, he left 
them and ran to meet me. They did not know he had 
seen me, and, on missing him, thought the little fellow 
was lost, and for a while were much alarmed. 

How we did enjoy seeing the many fine paintings by 
the old Dutch masters in the Ryck Museum ! The most 
celebrated painting in the Art Gallery was Rembrandt's 
Night Watch, which hangs alone in a large room and is 
a most impressive painting. The intense and eager ex- 
pression on all the faces is marvellously portrayed. We 
saw The Jester, by Franz Hals, in an adjoining room. 

Never have I been as far north as this. The sun did 
not set until half past eight this evening, and at two 
o'clock in the morning it will be light. 

This morning we visited another Art Gallery and en- 
joyed its many beautiful, fine paintings : Paul Potter's 
famous Bull ; Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, and his 
Saul and David, showing Saul moved to tears by the 
music of the harp on which David is playing. 

The Hague. 
The Haggle is the cleanest and most attractive of all 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 109 

the cities in Holland. We stayed at the Vieux Dollen, 
delightfully located and serving a most excellent tahle. 

This morning we first visited the Dutch Reform Cathe- 
dral, where the king and queen of Holland attend ser- 
vices. We sat in the royal pew. Queen Wilhelmina and 
the Prince Consort were married in this church in 1901. 
Then we walked to the royal palace and were shown 
through the state rooms. The palace is small and the 
furnishings very plain and substantial, red being the 
prevalent color. 

One of the delightful drives from The Hague is out to 
the kittle Palace in the Woods, which is beautifully and 
elegantly furnished. The Chinese and Japanese rooms 
were particularly effective in their rich and costly decora- 
tions. In the Chinese room, the chandelier was made 
entirely of cups and saucers inverted. 

Delft. 

After lunch, we made the excursion to Delft by train. 
We visited the Dutch Reform Cathedral, where the royal 
family of Holland is buried. Leaving the cathedral, we 
went to the shops and purchased a few pieces of genuine 
Delft china. 

SchvEningen. 

One of the most delightful and enjoyable trips from 
The Hague is the short, beautiful trolley ride out to 
Schveningen, the popular seaside resort of Holland. Its 
beach is large and safe, and is completely covered with 
big, curious-looking basket chairs. 

Antwerp. 
This morning we left The Hague for Antwerp. After 
lunch we visited the Art Gallery, which is small but beau- 
tiful and contains many rich and exquisite paintings. We 
saw many celebrated pictures of Verboeckhoven's fine 
cattle, Breton's peasant women ; also Bougereau's P>eggar 
Girl. We then visited the ancient house, now called the 



110 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Plantin Museum. It is filled with curiosities and many 
manuscripts. Here we saw the first printing-press used 
in Belgium. Next we visited the Cathedral, which con- 
tains Rubens' masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross. 
The cathedral tower has one hundred bell chimes and 
every fifteen minutes they are heard. Their music is par- 
ticularly sweet. We saw the house where Rubens was 
born and lived. We went to the church of St. Jaques, 
where Rubens' tomb is. 

This morning we had a most interesting drive along 
the docks. These show what an important seaport Ant- 
werp is ; for there was a perfect mass of masts, and simply 
no end to crafts of all sizes and shapes. We were much 
interested in seeing the dry docks. 

This afternoon we left Antwerp for Brussels, and a 
short ride of thirty minutes brought us there. 

Brussels. 

Good accommodations in Brussels were very difficult 
to secure on account of the Brussels Exposition ; so we 
went to several places before finally deciding on a small 
hotel delightfully located on the broad and beautiful 
Boulevard de Waterloo. After getting settled, we started 
at once for the post-office, where we received many good 
letters from home. 

We spent this morning at the Hotel de Ville, or Town- 
hall, which is quite a remarkable specimen of architecture. 
It has a beautiful, high tower that is not placed in the 
center of the large building, and both wings are entirely 
different. Then we visited some of the lace shops, where 
I purchased a large lace scarf and some pieces of lace. 
We watched the women lace-weavers for some time, then 
went to the picture gallery, which is a fine, big building. 
There are many of Rubens' groups here. 

After lunch, we went to the weird Wiertz Gallery and 
saw paintings by this artist. Surely the subjects are the 



FROM PARIS TO BRUSSELS 111 

most displeasing I have ever seen. 

This afternoon we took a car and had a beautiful ride 
out to the Exposition grounds. 

All this week it has heen pouring in torrents ; we have 
had little sunshine, hut have not allowed the rain to inter- 
fere with our sight-seeing. 

This afternoon we walked down to the magnificent 
Palais de Justice, or Courthouse. It is said to he the 
largest and most beautiful building in Europe, and surely 
it is very impressive with its great porticos and massive 
columns. 

This afternoon, Anna and Ruth made the interesting 
trip to the battlefield of Waterloo, where Napoleon met 
his great defeat and where the British, with the Duke 
of Wellington as their leader, were so victorious. 

This evening we started out in search of a most curious 
fountain called The Manniken Fountain, and we were 
not surprised to find it in rather a secluded spot. 

This morning we all had an early breakfast at Brussels 
and then were off on the early train for Ostend. Here 
we boarded the steamer to cross the English Channel to 
Dover. We were three hours in crossing, and the sea 
was rough and rolling. It seemed as if our boat were 
performing many unnecessary stunts. The children and 
I sat very still in our steamer chairs ; for we felt very 
uncomfortable and barely escaped mal de mer. 

From Dover we had a few hours' ride on the train to 
London. 



ENGLAND 

On arriving in London, we drove to two hotels before 
finally securing good rooms at St. Ermin's Hotel. We 
were, indeed, fortunate ; for it was well located, near 
St. James' Park, Buckingham Palace and Westminster 
Abbey. We found the hotel crowded with American 
tourists, and I also met the party with whom I traveled 
through Egypt. It seems strange that, in all our travels, 
we had not met before. 

Today we visited St. Paul's Cathedral, and it was most 
interesting. The interior is imposing and has much 
beauty in its vast proportions. It contains many monu- 
ments of celebrated people. The architect of the church 
was Sir Christopher Wren. The crypt extends under 
the entire church. In one nart is the Painters' Corner, 
named from the many celebrated artists that are buried 
here, among them being Benjamin West and Joshua 
Reynolds. A large and imposing sarcophagus of the 
Duke of Wellington stands here. 

This morning we first went to the American Express 
Company, where I was indeed glad to find two letters 
from Harry. Then we walked to the Washington Star 
office and registered, and Anna presented a letter from 
Mr. Theodore Noyes, and they were very courteous to 
us and gave us much desired information. We noticed 
the names of many of our friends on the register. We 
then got into a taxicab and went to London Tower. It 
was once used as a state prison, and many celebrated 
people were imprisoned and beheaded here : Anne Bolyn 



ENGLAND 113 

and Lady Jane Grey among them. Here we saw the 
elegant ermine coronation robes of King Edward VII 
and Queen Alexandra. Then we took another taxicab 
and went across the Tower Bridge, and back across the 
always crowded London Bridge, and, as we crossed, we 
obtained a wonderful view of the shipping port of Lon- 
don, filled with innumerable seacraft. 

What a delightful morning Anna, Ruth and I have 
had in the London shops ! 

We spent a strenuous and very interesting afternoon 
in the National Gallery. To me the choicest and most 
beautiful paintings of all we have seen in Europe were 
those by the British artists: Sir Joshua Reynolds— his 
world-famed portraits — the Infant Samuel and the Angel 
Head; Gainesborough's portrait of Mrs. Siddons, and 
Landseer's animals — Dignity and Impudence, and Shoe- 
ing the Horse ; Turner's Marine Disasters, and Delaroche's 
The Execution of Lady Jane Grey; Rosa Bonheur's 
Th<> Horse Fair. The Poets' Corner contains fine por- 
traits of George Eliot, Charlotte Bronte, Tane Austen, 
Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Tennyson, Dickens, and 
many others. We saw many fine portraits of Queen Vic- 
toria, and a very good one of Albert, the Prince Consort. 

Westminster Abbey. 

"Within whose sacred walls the memory of so many 
illustrious men is perpetuated is one series of tombs, 
monuments and tablets, and is considered the greatest 
honor the nation can bestow on the most deserving of 
her offspring." The vastness and gloom of it is felt at 
once noon entering. We walked through the Royal 
Chapels containing the tombs of rovalty. King George 
and his wife were the last buried here, in 1700. A large 
tomb of bronze, where Queen Elizabeth is buried, 
and a monument to Oliver Cromwell attract many visi- 
tors. We saw the Coronation Chair, used by every 



114 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

English king from William the Conqueror to the present 
time. In the Poets' Corner we saw monuments to 
Shakespeare, Sir Walter Scott, Oliver Goldsmith, Charles 
Dickens, Addison, Macaulay, Longfellow, Tennyson. Mil- 
ton, Ben Jonson, Spencer, Dryden, and many others, 
Longfellow being the only American honored with a 
place in this corner. 

Tonight we went to Drury Lane Theatre and saw a 
very good play. 

Houses of Parliament. 

This morning, following a great crowd of sight-seers 
and with great solemnity, we walked through the Houses 
of Parliament, which were built in 1840. The interior 
is in keeping with the exterior and is magnificent and 
imposing. We first entered the king's robing room, a 
large and beautiful chamber ; then, proceeding through 
the Victoria gallery, we came to the House of Lords, 
where the king opens parliament. It is a richly decorated 
room filled with red leather seats or benches occupied by 
its five hundred members. From here we passed to the 
House of Commons, a substantial, handsomely decorated 
room, the paneling of which was all in dark wood. In the 
halls there are many fine statues of celebrated statesmen. 
A fine one of Gladstone is here. 

Then we went out through Westminster Hall, full of 
many historical associations and where Charles I was 
condemned to die. 

Today we made the delightful excursion out to Hamp- 
ton Court. It is the largest royal palace in England and 
was built in 1515. This palace is indeed vast and con- 
tains many courts. The gardens are very extensive and 
are filled with beautiful walks, flowers, and splendid 
stately old trees. 

On our way back to the station we purchased some deli- 
cious strawberries and, while waiting for the train, en- 



ENGLAND 115 

joyed them very much. 

This morning we spent in front of Buckingham Palace, 
much interested in watching the gaily dressed Royal 
Guards. 

This afternoon we visited Kensington Palace, which is 
a low, unpretentious brick building, and is beautifully 
located in an extensive and attractive garden. Queen 
Victoria was born here and lived here many years ; also 
the present Queen Mary was born here, and all of the 
Teck family. We saw the piano used by Queen Vic- 
toria ; her nursery and some of her toys ; also the room in 
which she was baptized. Queen Victoria was living here 
when she received the news of her becoming queen. 
There are many portraits of kings and queens to be seen 
here. 

In front of Kensington Palace is a beautiful statue of 
Queen Victoria, done by her daughter, Princess Louise. 

We strolled through these beautiful grounds to the Al- 
bert Memorial, a magnificent monument with a profusion 
of gilding and mosaics, bearing the inscription : "Queen 
Victoria and her people to the Memory of Albert, Prince 
Consort, as a tribute of their gratitude for a life devoted 
to the public good." 

This morning we hurried to get through breakfast, so 
as to be over at the Mall in time to see King George V. 
return from his morning horseback ride. We walked 
through St. James Park and had been there only a few 
minutes when we saw the royal party approaching. The 
king and several guards were riding from Buckingham 
Palace on their way to Marlborough House. As they 
passed us, little William Bradley took off his hat ; then the 
king took off his hat and bowed very graciously. The 
king wore no uniform, but was clad in a black suit and 
derby and white gauntlets, and rode a beautiful black 
horse. He rides from 8 :30 to 9 :30 everv morning. 



116 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

Today we went to the Wallace Art Gallery which is 
filled with many magnificent paintings. This house is said 
to he Gaunt House in Thackeray's Vanity Fair. 

Today we made the trip out to Horsmonden. It is a 
two hours' ride by train from London, changing cars at 
Toubridge and Paddock Wood. Horsmonden is a typical 
English village, and the surrounding country is just as 
we would have pictured rural England to be. A two 
miles' drive brought us to Horsmonden church. This is a 
splendid old stone structure and was built in 1100. It is 
in a fine state of preservation. We saw a beautiful 
bronze tablet erected to the memory of Major Simon Wil- 
lard, and placed there by Frances E. Willard, one of his 
descendants. Harry is descended directly from Major 
Willard, who was the first Willard to settle in America 
in 1634. W T hen I told little William Bradley and Sarah 
their father's ancestors came from here, little William 
Bradley said : "Where are they now ? I want to see 
them" 

This morning we went for a stroll and soon found our- 
selves in front of St. James Palace, where we stood and 
watched the Royal Guards maneuvering. 

Today we left London after a stay of almost three 
weeks. We were seated in our compartment, readv to 
leave for Windsor, when two of our Brattleboro friends 
stepped in. We spent the day pleasantly together. 

Windsor Castle. 
Windsor is only a half hour's ride from London, and 
the castle is beautifully located, overlooking the Thames 
and its fine fertile valley. The castle is very large and 
richly furnished. 

Eton College. 
After lunch we took a short drive to Eton College 
which was founded in 1440. We were shown through 
the class-rooms where they still use the same long wooden 



ENGLAND 117 

benches and desks of former times ; in these the rudely cut 
names were most conspicuous. The speaking hall was 
intensely interesting. Here there is a high oak paneling 
all around the long, narrow room, which contains col- 
umn after column of the names of the graduates. Those 
desiring their names carved here must pay for it. We 
read the names of Shelley and William E. Gladstone, who 
attended school here and later went to Oxford. We were 
fortunate enough to witness the roll-call in the courtyard. 
One thousand students, as the head master called their 
names, assembled in different groups or classes. As his 
name was called, each student replied by taking off his 
high silk hat and saying, "Here, sir." Their suits were 
rather strange : the older boys wearing the long Prince 
Albert coat and high hat; the younger boys, the short 
Eton iacket and high hat. 

Oxford. 

From Windsor, we had a two hours' ride to Oxford, 
one of the most ancient and celebrated universities in 
Europe. It was founded in 1100. It includes twenty- 
two colleges. The English Chancellor is the head of the 
University. Christ Church College is one of the finest 
among these, and from it King Edward VII. graduated. 
New College is also very beautiful. Attractive courts 
open into one another, and each college has its own beauti- 
ful chapel ; the gardens, in their quadrangled-shaped 
lawns, are the most perfectly kept of any I have ever 
seen. Each college has its own crest : one bears the in- 
scription, "Manners Makyth Man." There are four thou- 
sand students at Oxford. One of the buildings still used 
by the students was erected in 1280. It stands in a fine 
grove of venerable trees. Thomas Pope and his wife 
were the founders of this college. A curious effect greets 
the visitor's eye as you stroll down Lime Walk, where 
Gothic architecture is represented in trees. In New Chap- 



118 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

el is a window by Sir Joshua Reynolds : the tones are all 
in soft brown and yellow. This window was placed here 
in 1777 and is now considered the finest in the world. 
We also visited the hall where all the degrees are con- 
ferred : this is where Mark Twain obtained his diploma. 

This visit to all the University Buildings of England 
was one of the great treats of my trip. 

We have surely enjoyed our sojourn among these real 
English-speaking people ; yet, strange to say, their lan- 
guage was almost as difficult for me to understand as if 
they were speaking French or German. 

Leamington. 

Today is little Sarah's fourth birthday, and this morn- 
ing William and I had lots of toys and books ready to 
give her a big surprise. 

Leamington is a delightful, prosperous town, with beau- 
tiful gardens and splendid, broad streets. This morning 
we spent in the garden enjoying the music of the band. 
The lawns are perfectly kept, and there are no restrictions 
preventing either old or young from enjoying them. 

This afternoon we watched the finals of a tennis tour- 
nament. 

Kenilworth Castle. 
This morning we drove out to Kenilworth, a distance 
of five miles. There is little left of the castle, but the 
ruins of its walls, and they look as if they would tumble 
down any moment. In 1563, this castle was the royal 
residence, and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, wel- 
comed Queen Elizabeth here in 1575. Amy Robsart was 
murdered by her husband, the Earl of Leicester, in this 
castle, as he desired to marry Queen Elizabeth. Oliver 
Cromwell and his men completely demolished this fine 
and stately old palace, scattering its costlv contents every- 
where. The holes in the walls are now visible where the 
bullets penetrated. No other castle has had such stormy 



ENGLAND 119 

scenes enacted within it, and been connected with so much 
of English history. Passing" through the courtly luxury 
of Queen Elizabeth's reign, when there was so much 
brilliant entertaining done here. Sir Walter Scott has 
immortalized Kenilworth Castle as the scene of his novel. 

Stratford on Avon. 
This morning we took train to Stratford on Avon, to 
visit the birthplace of England's greatest son. We first 
walked to the church containing the tomb of Shakespeare 
and that of his wife, Anne Hathaway ; also their daughter, 
Mistress Hall, and her husband. The font from which 
Shakespeare was baptized is seen in this church. We 
walked through the streets of this clean and well-built 
little country town to the house in which Shakespeare 
was born in 1564. The house is now national property 
and is kept in scrupulously good order. The white- 
washed ceilings are covered with visitors' names written 
in pencil, a custom long ago prohibited. Scratched on the 
small diagonal-shaped window panes are the names of 
Walter Scott, Thomas Carlyle and Thackeray. A most 
interesting collection of the poet's portraits and the early 
editions of his great works are shown ; also the large 
wooden desk used by Shakespeare at the grammar school 
at Stratford, and his large gold seal ring. The beautiful 
garden back of the house is a part of the original land, 
and is filled with such flowers as are mentioned in Shake- 
speare's plays. 

Warwick Castle. 
Today we took the trolley and rode out through the 
beautiful streets of Leamington. Just on the outskirts of 
the town, we came to the entrance of the ancient and 
stately home of the Earl of Warwick. The grounds are 
particularly attractive with their velvety turf and stately 
trees. Tbe castle remains intact, and the royal family 
often comes bere. The interior of the castle contains 



120 OUR TRIP ABROAD 

many fine paintings, a large collection of armor and many 
interesting curios. A particularly fine painting of Mrs. 
Siddons is seen here, and the armor worn by Oliver Crom- 
well and the Duke of Wellington. Queen Elizabeth was 
entertained at this castle. In the conservatory is seen the 
famous Warwick Vase, found in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, 
near Rome. 

Today, very reluctantly, we left Leamington, after our 
delightful stay here of just one week. 

Chester. 

This afternoon, we had a three hours' ride on the train 
to Chester. We found all the hotels crowded when we 
reached there, on account of the great pageant that was 
being given. However, we secured rooms at a very good 
hotel which, like the town, is very old. One of the curious 
things about Chester is the Roman wall that still stands 
and encircles the town, covering a distance of two miles. 
I enjoyed immensely my walk on this wall and, in many 
places, obtained a fine view of Chester and its surrounding 
country. There are many towers on the wall still remain- 
ing, and the most interesting is the Charles I. Tower, 
from which he witnessed the defeat of his soldiers. The 
arcades are a unique feature of this ancient town, stores 
occupying the place of the front room. 

Chester is said to be the Nuremburg of England. Its 
fine specimens of old timber-built houses are most inter- 
esting. 

Liverpool. 

This afternoon, a short, comfortable ride on the train 
brought us to Liverpool, and we secured fine accommoda- 
tions at the Adelphi Hotel. 

Early this morning, we set out for our first glimpse of 
Liverpool ; mounting to the upper deck of a great bus, we 
took a ride about the city. The bus was enclosed in glass 
and did not seem as dangerous as the London bus. The 



ENGLAND 121 

usual weather prevailed — rain, wind and fog. 

This afternoon we boarded the Cymric for our home- 
ward journey, and are all greatly excited over sailing. 
After eight days on the Cymric, with a rough and cold 
voyage, but all escaping mal de mcr, we reached Boston 
at noon, August fourth. Harry and Henry Augustus 
were waiting to meet us, and how overjoyed we were to 
see each other and be home again after our long and 
wonderful trip ! Before starting to the hotel, it took me 
some time to get through the Custom House. I had de- 
clared all my articles, and was most fortunate in getting 
through without paying any duty. 



